Good advise! I forgot about the idle stop on the carb, but just moving the throttle cable itself, I can go past idle, the spring and linkage goes slack, I am actually going past the stop on the dash itself. It idles fine, maybe a little slow, I think the kohler service manual says to set slow idle at 1680 rpms. My spring was set they way it came off, I did find that in the manual and they were set as recommend. I have been using the manual for the rebuild, I don't think I could have ever got it running without it! Some of the stuff in the manual is a little vague, static timing procedure is one of those, but I got it figured out.

1680 is pretty fast. 1000-1200 would be more like it. My manual suggests something in that range, can't remember the exact value.

I could be mistaken, manual is in my shop so I can't look at it right now, but that is the number I had stuck in my head. I probably am thinking about something else, I would think it would have listed the low idle speed in a range of rpms like you did....oh well, that is what I have it for....more reading to do!

Would you hurry up and post some more completed pictures I am dying to see a red 149 :D

You and me both! I had hoped to have had it done by now, but been so busy at work, it has kept me from getting it finished. Now that I have the engine running, the next step will be to get in installed in the frame. Then I need to get the wiring finished, finish fine tuning the motor, install the drive shaft and adjust the hydro controls, and then finish painting the tins and get them on there. Still quite a bit stuff to do, hopefully will get it done in the next month or so....

Well, the last couple days I got the motor moved from the test frame to it's new home in the 149. I pretty much got the new wiring harness I got from Porch Electric installed, just need to finish a couple of the ends for the battery cables. Then, I decided to get the drive shaft in...I had asked about using a driveshaft from a 1250 tractor, I did not get a lot of replies, but those that did thought it should work...maybe have to make a few mods here and there. Well, I got it in (I was looking at my pics to post, and see I neglected to get an over all pic of the tractor as it sits now, and one of the driveshaft in place...:bash2::bash2:). Anyhow here are the pics:

Okay here is a pic of the original parts for the 149:

Attachment 14808
Here the damaged areas of those parts, the driveshaft was worn were it sits in the drive cup, and the drive cup was worn where the drive pin rides in it...these two pieces should be replaced or repaired (in case you are wondering, these are not exactly cheap either).
Attachment 14809Attachment 14810

I think the design of this driveshaft is a weak link in the tractors drive line, so I decided to change it the newer 1250 style driveshaft. Here are pics of all the pieces I used for the upgrade, basically all the parts from the 1250 (not shown is the 3rd flex disk used)

Attachment 14811Attachment 14812

So, after measuring and test fitting, I determined that the 1250 shaft was a tad bit to long, and had a machine shop cut it down 1/2" inch (1/4" probably would have worked, though). I had also determined that the front flex disk coupler needed to be moved rearward 9/16", so the machine shop redrilled the hole for me also. I wound up using 2 flex disks at the motor end of the tractor and one at the hydro end.

Attachment 14813

Just a note, I had the driveshaft in and out of the tractor numerous times, to accomplish this, I merely removed the 2 rear most motor mount bolts, and loosened the front 2. Then I could rock the motor forward and allow the driveshaft to be installed/ removed with ease. Most likely this would not have worked with the original driveshaft, but since the 1250 design uses flex disk at both ends, and the pilot bushings are ball sockets, it works quite well.

That upgrade is a great idea, but I have two comments:

1. That driveshaft may break where you have the two holes close together. You probably would have been time and money ahead buying a $10 piece of steel and making a new one.

2. I would have put the two flex discs on the trans end, and the one up at the engine, reason being if one joint fails (the weak link), it'll be the front one, and no further damage will occur. If it's at the back, the flailing driveshaft will destroy the filter, hydraulic lines and wiring in the immediate vicinity.

Thanks for the response...to anwer your comments, where the 2 holes are close together, the new hole is the one furthest from the end of the shaft. The other one (the orginal hole) is not being used, that ends only purpose will be to ride in the pilot bushing at the engine end of the shaft. I may make a new shaft for it at some point, I was more concerned about getting everything to work for the moment.
The reason I put the flex disks the way that I did, was for 2 reasons. I did not want the second hole drilled through the shaft too close to the first, as you mentioned in point one, making a weak spot...I remembered you stating that the later tractors used 2 disk at each end, so I moved the hole back to account for an additional disk at the motor end. The second reason was that this driveshaft had originally only one disk per end, where the shaft extends in the transmission end, it has a ball bearing spacer in that end, adding the second disk there would have left a disk widths space between the shaft end and the ball bearing, and would have pulled the shaft most of the way out of the pilot bushing. If any of that makes sense...

The reasons for the upgrade were: (1) I did not want to purchase the over priced parts, that have no choice but to wear out, basically a steel on steel wear area, and (2) the 1250's shaft superior design, if any of the flex disks fail (the weak link in this system), the pilot bushing in that end should restrain the driveshaft and prevent damage to other parts.

Thanks for updating us, Jeff! :beerchug:

The bushing *should* keep it where it belongs, but I have seen (and owned) several tractors with damage that proves that isn't always the case.

I wasn't aware that IH ever ran two flex discs at each end out of production, did they?

I've seen where they used one at the engine, and two at the hydro.

Starting with the 82 series, they had two at each end.

K321 idle speed
 

hi guys,
I recall seeing that the idle speed should be 900 rpm. I can't remember source but I'll look for it to confirm.

Thanks for the info tt, I have printed off a copy of the service manual, just need to read over it a couple times before fine tuning it....still got to finish the wiring first!

K321 idle speed
 

I was wrong. It's supposed to be 1000 rpm. The same speed is shown for models 86,108,109,128,129,149,169.

Speed is 1800 for 800,1000,1200,1250,1450,1650,4120

This is from my Engine,Fuel and Electrical systems service manual

Did not got much done today, but I did get the dash on, and all the wiring in the dash panel buttoned up. I mounted the 82 series steering wheel from the parts 1250, and still need to get the hydrostat control lever on it. Anyhow, here are some pics of what it looks like right now:
Attachment 14862Attachment 14863
Attachment 14864Attachment 14865

Oh, and here are some of the 1250 driveshaft installed:

motor end
Attachment 14866

hydro end
Attachment 14867
Now I just need to get busy and get a few more pieces sanded and painted, eventually I will have a working tractor again!

Actually the plan is to get the tank, it's mounting brackets and hardware as well as the starter/ generator painted first. Once I get those painted and installed, I will get it fired up and start adjusting stuff. I want to get this done before putting on the fender pan, I am sure I will need to adjust the hydro linkages for creep and centering, no sense installing the fenders and having to take them back off for adjustments!

Nice work, Jeff! Enjoyed the pics. :beerchug:

Oh yeah!:clap:

Oh I am loving the red!! Once my 149 gets to running again i may do this!! What you got planned for the exhaust it looks a little custom going on there two?? So wish I could put a stack on mine just for fun but the trees in the woods would prolly negate me! Thanks for the pics now go get some more done!! Lol JK

It will be getting a stack, if you look back a few posts, I have a posts with a YouTube link to the initial start up of the engine, the stack is on there....but not in finished form, the horizontal pipe will be trimmed down. I have to wait on cutting it down until I get the hood back on, I want it close to the hood, and once it is together, I may trim the upper part of the stack as well, just got to see how it looks together. By the way, I never mentioned it before, but the muffler was purchased at Orscheln's Farm and Home (I have been trying to be deligent about posting where I obtained my parts from, so anyone could duplicate my mods if they chose to), my local store carries a good selection of tractor parts, the muffler I got was a replacement for a CA Allis Chalmers (1 1/2" inside diameter inlet and outlets... fits pretty well over the 1" black iron gas pipe the exhaust is made from!).

Dude I missed that! Nice video of it!

Looks pretty sharp Jeff! I really like the red paint! Is that vansickle red?

Awesome update Jeff! Your hard work is paying off!

The resto-mod looks great. I had a question on the flex disks. If you are using three, I thought that you should put two on the pump and one on the motor or am I wrong again?:HeadScratch:

MattG made the same observation....I could change the configuration, it isn't that hard to get it in and out....more of a pain getting the motor mount bolts loosened/ removed than anything else. If you look at post 167 you will see pics of the parts I used....one of the flex disks you see in that photo was meant for a 149, the inside hole is smaller, it works fine at the motor end of the driveshaft, mounted as the one fartherest away from the motor. Since the center hole is smaller, it will not work at the hyrdo end of the driveshaft, the center hole is too small to allow the coupler to protrude into it, also it will not work alone at the front, same reason there also.
If you look at post 169, I gave my reasons for putting it up front. The driveshaft came out of a 1250 with one FD at each end. As I was test fitting it in the tractor, I noticed that the ball bearing that rides in the rear coupler acts as a spacer, between the driveshaft and input shaft of the hydro unit, when the two shafts are butted against the ball bearing, it provides a gap between the mounting points where the FD rides, that is basically the width of the FD. If I put 2 FD's at the rear coupler, the ball bearing would have the width of a FD worth of slop built into it between the hydro input shaft and the driveshaft itself. I have never messed with this driveshaft configuration before, but I assume the ball bearing's purpose is to act as a spacer, with 2 FD's in the rear, I might as well chuck the ball bearing in the trash, it would serve no purpose what so ever....this, among the other reasons mentioned in posts 167 and 169 were why I put it together the way I did.

Matt reasoned that if the single FD failed, it could lead to damaged parts, I can see his point, the engine would still be driving the shaft, if it came out of the coupler, the loose end would tear up some stuff. If it were the other way around, once it came out of the engine end, it would basically come to a stop.

Other than that, can anyone else think of a reason to mount it the opposite way that I have it. Just because IH did it the other way doesn't sway my decision one way or the other....IH never put this configuration in a 149, so I find that point moot.

I can get a new piece of 5/8" bar stock and have a new one made, if I do so, the question I have is this: Once it is together (2 FD's in rear), should the ball bearing be let in there flopping around, or should I slide the entire shaft rearward, so that it acts as a spacer between the input shaft and the driveshaft?:bigthink:

Yes, it's vansickle paint, with their hardner, and thinned with laquer thinner....applied with a hvlp spray gun set at roughly 30 psi!:biggrin2:

If you have the style of coupler with the ball bushing in it, you technically wouldn't need the 5/8" ball- the 82 series don't have the ball, except the gear drives. It is a good idea to have it though, as the bushings will last longer. If you keep the ball, the driveshaft needs to have the end center-drilled, and it needs to be pushing the ball up against the hydro input shaft, or it won't be doing anything.

Okay, mine has the bearing and the pivot ball bushing in the coupler where the driveshaft slides through it. The way it is put together now, the ball bearing is snug between the input shaft and the driveshaft (tightening down the FD takes away any play at this end)...the driveshaft has the center indentation in it (I never touched this end of the shaft, it is oem from the 1250). To make it work, it has to be together as it is....or I could lose the ball bearing and move the second FD to the rear, but I may have to buy another FD, I am not sure the 149 style FD will work as the inner (driveshaft side) of the rear joint.

If it were yours, what would you do?

1. use it as I have it configured now,
2. ditch the ball bearing and move the second FD to the rear,
3. build a new shaft, keep the ball bearing in place, and make the shafts contact the ball bearing with 2 FD's at the rear coupler.
4. or?

Thanks

If I were doing it, my order of preference would be as follows:

4. Just like your 3. except 2 flex discs at each end
3.
2.
1.

Now keep in mind I have (had) a drill press and lathe to use, so I would have no problem with the center mark and drilling the holes in the shaft.

That is my problem, I don't have a drill press or lathe....I have to go to the machine shop and pay to have it done...

I guess, I will start the drive shaft over, get a piece of 5/8" bar stock, cut it to length ( have the machine shop put the indentation in the back end of it), slide the couplers on it and bolt everything together with the flex disks (I'll get one more of those also), then mark the new shaft for the machine shop to bore the new holes through it.

oh, and thanks for your help!

:beerchug:

No problem! Once you get that done, it should last just about forever. I've had a couple 82 series tractors with 1000+ hours on the original flex couplings...

Awesome work man! Cheers!

I'm very interested in your driveshaft modification. I had a real pain this summer trying to get my 129 to stop throwing driveshaft pins, and I even paid for a new driveshaft from Chris Westfall. It may have worked, but I had to drive the pin out to get the hydro fan on, and after moving the pin. it never went back in like it should. It would, in a matter of seconds come flying out of the driveshaft and coupler with all the centrifugal force applied to it. I tried holding it in there with a hose clamp and it broke through the clamp!

Anyway, I was thinking of doing a QL Driveshaft Mod at that time, and I'm glad to see you've actually got it figured out! For the moment I'm using a 1/4" bolt and nuts t the engine coupler and it is working for the moment but is not permanent solution. Yours is.

Looking forward to your progress.

Justin

Haven't been posting any updates lately, but I have still been busy. I am down to the last leg of the rebuild, been prepping and painting (kind of boring and tedius work) lots and lots of parts, still need to get the driveshaft 100% fiinshed up, but I did get the motor fired in the tractor, and verified that the used auto release hydro valves do indeed work and did not leak! I got the last of the parts painted except for the hood (when I get to that, I will update again, I decided to use a QL hood over the original, I prefer the latching system over what the 149 had stock), will get it either tomorrow or the next day, then I still need to order the rebuild kit for the PTO, get it together and put the rest of the tractor back together. It has taken much longer than I had hoped, but I should have it done by the middle of October....maybe in time to play with some of my new implements!

Here are the pics:

Attachment 15601Attachment 15602
Attachment 15603Attachment 15604
Attachment 15605

Looks nice, Jeff! :ThumbsUp:

Looks good Jeff! That red does look bad a** !

Looking great Jeff!!! :beerchug:

Looks real sharp Jeff:beerchug:!

I see red! Looking great Jeff!

Oh yeah, I am definitely going to do my next wide frame in Red. I love it.

I hear ya, DWayne. So do I. :beerchug: