I believe that all the pins are the same...

Try member Jeff in PA on here... he makes super high quality parts and is great to deal with.. I bet he has the pin you need or he will make it:beerchug:

Thanks for the tip. I may reach out to Jeff at some point. I do happen to have a later style pin available. It appears to be about 1/4 shorter than the original, but is long enough. The original stuck out the back side by little bit.

I am cleaning up the frame. Did much of it with wire wheel, but using electrolysis to get to the nooks and crannies underneath. This picture is after it ran all night. I cleaned the sacrificial metal this morning and put it back to work.

The rear axle seals were leaking pretty bad so I pulled the rear cover, pulled out the c clips and the axle came out as expected. I also pulled the axle carriers off the differential. There was a lot of heavy crud in the base of the differential and inside each axle housing. I cleaned everything up as best I could. The differential bearings seem smooth.

I obviously need to replace the axle seals and everything I have read suggests replacing the bushings as well. PN 384664 appears to be NLA. There is a guy on eBay selling the bushings and seals as a kit. I noticed that his bushings don't have the small holes like the original. I also found that Brian Miller sells some bronze bushings, also without the holes.

What are your recommendations. While I have everything open anything else I should do?

Thanks

Bill

I rebuilt the steering assembly. This was one is in very good shape. There was no wear in the cam follower. I only had to replace the bearings. Looks like some water had found its way in there. Thankfully there was plenty of grease so the only damage was pitting of the balls. After packing with grease and some fresh paint I tested the fit of the new steering wheel. There is suppose to be a felt seal at the top above the plastic bearing and the below the steering wheel. That part is NLA. Today as I was walking through Home Depot it struck me, what about foam pipe insulation. I brought home a piece of 3/4 and 1/2 to try it out. The 1/2 is a perfect snug fit. Not shown in the picture I sprayed it black like the column.

Looking good and coming along!!:beerchug:

I ended up getting the bushings from Grainger. I pressed out the old ones and pressed in the new ones this morning. The old one were worn to .007 and .009 over. The new ones were a little longer, but I don't think that will be a problem. I I also cleaned up the transmission with various size wire wheels. Just waiting on the new seals and gaskets for the transmission so I can put it back together and get it primed and painted.

Lookin' good there smalljob!
:IH Trusted Hand:

Looking for opinions. Probably no right answer, but would like to hear your thoughts. When I picked this tractor up last year the PO told me that the transmission that was in it had a problem. I think he said it was reverse. Anyway he had access to another one so he swapped them. The original transmission has the reduction unit that clearly identified it as a 1963. The one I cleaned up does not show any serial number on either the reduction unit or the rear end. I am a bit perplexed by that. Any idea where the serial number is on the other one?

What would you guys do? Finish cleaning this up as is or would you swap the two reduction units so that the correct serial number is there?

Thanks for your thoughts

Bill

The only time a serial number would really matter is a 3 or 4 digit OCC. Other than that its the options that bring the money. I would not worry about it.






Randy

school bus seat??? I see alot of modded Cubs at teh shows particularly the Threshermens show in Pontiac IL that happens around (almost) every Labor day.... rained out last year for the 1st time in I think, ever... cancelled last minute style, I was pissed.