Alvy. With my inability to fully explain how this electrical system works it will be easier to simply send you a copy of the wiring schematic. There was an issue with the original one from the service manual that was confusing me back when this all started. Roland had me send him that and he found the error problem, corrected it and redrew it in his colored wire format. I'll see if I can send that to you via pm. I'm not sure if there is a size limit to pm.

I just can't figure out how to explain it without writing a 47 page essay.

Thanks
Mike

Alvy. Apparently the file size is larger than PM will accept. The same problem with posting it here. I guess the only way is if you pm me your e-mail and then I can send back a pdf of the schematic.

Mike

I got my new solenoid in yesterday and retested the old one as well as the new one. I volt test both and they both tested out good.

Were I found a problem on the old one that is still mounted and wired is that with the traction solenoid and motor running I should be getting 36v at the input control post on the blade solenoid with the blade switch in the start or run position. I am only getting about 2v. That takes me back to were I was last fall, suspecting that one of the two switches is faulty. I have 36v to the blade switch, so my first suspect is that switch.

Last fall I looked high and low for a replacement and couldn't find anything that would for sure work. A lot of possibles, but none that gave me how they functioned.

Can anyone enlighten me on how the electric PTO switches work? Do they have 3 positions as in Start/Run/Off and three terminals? If so, they might be my best option.

Alvy - I'll email you my actual testing outcomes tomorrow. I have some thoughts on "jumper" wiring the switch(s) to lock in which one is actually the culprit.

I don't know about the rest of you, but this retirement deal is way too much work

Mike

No worries Mike. You're doing good and getting close. Looks like you've found a missing positive control to the blade motor solenoid which goes through those two sequence switches upstream from it. They are in series so we need to test the input and output of that specific part of them. Let's make sure first that they are wired correctly using that schematic and then we can do some volt drop tests starting at the battery, positive. I'm sending you another PM with a different email than before as I'm away from my work tablet for a couple days.