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Harbor Freight had a mixed assortment of them. There was one the right size in there. I've had good luck with simple tools / pieces at HF. I'm sure it will do just fine.
But, when I do a proper rebuild, I'll likely order some higher quality parts. |
Those pins from hf are just roll pins you know? The driveshaft uses a spiral pin that it like a roll pin, but stronger. It is steel wound all the way to the center and are what's supposed to be in the driveshaft. Those roll pins are likely to break or fall out.
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Jason,
Could be the hole in the trans input yoke is all wallered out and the pin is now to small. You should have to drive that spirol pin in with a hammer and it should be quite snug, interference fit or something like that. Maybe Jeff in PA or one of the other machinist here could chime in with what diameter the hole should be in the drive shaft, trans yoke for the pin to fit right. And remember to support the drive shaft with a jack stand before you start hammering that pin in, don't want to damage the trans input bearing.:beerchug: David |
thanks for the input guys. I didn't realize there was a difference in pins. I'm all but certain there was just a roll pin in there when I pulled the old driveshaft. But that doesn't mean the PO put the right part in there.
According to the Cub Cadet part finder, it's 1/4 x 1.5 spiral pin. The 1/4 roll pin I put in was snug when I drove it in. I'll keep an eye on it and if it starts working it's way out I'll get a spiral pin. It looks like I"ll have a backup tractor now, I'm getting a 149... so it begins. |
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