Ole 47
I took a couple pictures of the hydro pedal on my Ford YT16 H

I know to run at full throttle when doing work with the tractor. Im not sure where i saw it at but thought this would help.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod...ID=1009&r=view

Using a marine blower motor for cooling if you could get it to fit up under the steering column somehow or in front of motor possibly.

I'm with you there.
I'll have to wait until I heal up more.
I got in trouble with my doctor yesterday.:BB&YS:
I installed a dish washer for my wife, he wasn't to happy with me.
I can't help it I'm tired of sitting around not doing anything...
Can't lift anything over 10 # or use anything that vibrates.

I just sat on my 147 today and dreamt about moving dirt.:biggrin2.gif:
ole 147

Any updates about this. I myself am trying to figure out how to put a foot control on my 105 as I'm in the process of building a FEL.

Ok,got to looking tonight and decided to try something. I started by removing the two roll pins on the brake pedal shaft,one holds the rocker shaft,the other keeps the assembly from moving side to side as a whole.I then disconnected the three rods from the rocker shaft,one to the brake on the rear,one to the lever on the dash and the other locks the lever when the pedal is held down.I pulled the pedal/shaft out and reinstalled it from the other side(right sitting on seat). Now without the Speed Control Cam(we'll call it SCC) connected to the lever on the dash,there is no resistance,therefore the SCC moves too easily(bad thing with a heavy pedal on the end of the shaft) So what I came up with is to leave the SCC connected to the dash lever and run a second rod with a clevis on both ends and an adjusting turnbuckle. One clevis will be connected to the SCC using the same bolt that secures the rod to the dash lever,and the other end(clevis) to the rocker shaft hooked to the pedal.I see no reason why this won't work. My only problem(s) is the brake on the rear,somehow needs to be secured in position so it doesn't engage on it's own and the rod that locks the dash lever in the neutral position(it automatically engages on it's own). I think these are more annoyances then problems really.
So what do ya'll think? Not a mod for the purist,but I want my machine to suite me,so I really don't care

How about some pictures or drawings....???

:WWP:

No pics yet. Not sure how I could draw it ?

If you're going to put it on a dedicated loader tractor, get rid of the lift handle (it's in the way anyway, or at least it is on my 124 FEL) and make up a forward/reverse pedal to go in its place. Use two strong springs with an adjustable mount on the ends of both springs (this begs for a drawing but I don't have time at the moment) so you can adjust the pedal until it re-centers at neutral. You want return springs so the hydro can't fly to full speed ahead if your foot slides off...that could be deadly on a loader. You may also need some kind of damper. Strong springs might be enough to damp out the oscillation you'd induce if your foot slid off the pedal. I haven't tried this yet, so I don't know. I'll be making one (and probably drawing plans) when I build up a 682 for my loader.

Matt,

I agree about getting rid of the lift handle, I don't know if I could get my right leg in between the loader upright and the handle if it was there.

If you leave the F/R operating mechanism in place (and hooked up) couldn't you adjust the friction on it to use as a damper? The springs could do their work and the F/R mechanism would just keep the springs from "snapping" it back to center, which could be equally dangerous (I'm thinking "heavy load", "snap" back to center, momentum, loader bucket hits ground, operator bucked off seat, flies forward just in time for rear wheels to hit ground again, operator smashes face into hood, accidentally stomps on pedal again...) ?

What I was thinking. Lift handle was removed long ago