I keep 2 cans of the brake cleaner in the cabinet for cleaning parts to paint. If you have bare metal it removes all the oils. But you better paint it quick or you'll get rust. Did you check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge? (edit)Oh I see you did use a gauge.

Have you changed the oil and filter?


Be aware: Some brake cleaners will dull paint... or even remove it.

Looked in the service manual, it appears you can service some aspects of lubrication system without splitting the crankcase. Wondering if you have a problem with the relief valve? Go to 7.1, bottom left.

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/TP%202204-...e%20Manual.pdf

I didn't change them initially because the oil appeared clean when I first checked the dipstick. When the oil light began to come on after a few trips around the yard I changed the oil and put a new Kohler filter on it. Still no luck.

I have no idea what the sensible choice is. Should I:

replace the oil pump
rebuild the motor completely myself
pay someone to rebuild the motor
buy a low hours motor
buy a rebuilt motor

Any and all advise is appreciated!

And the reward for your good advice is a glimpse of sunset at the vineyard on Jug Bay in Maryland.

How about you do what i suggested before and remove the oil pressure sending unit and hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I would not base the need for an engine rebuild on an idiot light with an electric sensor, a mechanical gauge will give much more info.

I described doing just that a few posts earlier. I got zero PSI.

John just pointed me to the Magnum manual page 7.1 where it reads that I can get to the pressure relief valve through the "rear closure plate". Section 11.9 describes installing the closure plate.

Unless the relief valve is stuck or broken I will have to split the cases to get to the oil pump.

Review the oiling system diagram in the service manual, and familiarize
yourself with it.
the oil is sucked out of the crankcase to the pump through a screen in the bottom center of the crankcase.
as it goes through the pump it is directed thorough the passageways and excessive pressure is controlled with the pressure relief spring & ball.
If someone has removed the front cover ( pto side) it is possible that the relief ball is missing or the spring is broken.
First I would remove the electric pto, then front crankcase closure cover.
That will expose the pressure relief spring and ball, and determin if it is in the proper place.
if they are there and ok then proceed to the 4 screws holding the oil pump cover plate on and inspect if all is well there.
That is the extent of the external accessible parts.
When you get that far I will help you further.
Hopefully you will find the problem.
it is possible the big plastic drive gear is broken inside the crankcase or the thin roll drive pin, but it is very uncommon, and requires splitting the crankcase halves.
Do you have a divorced oil filter? ( hoses connecting it to the engine)
or is the filter attached to the engine? :bigthink:

I've seen them eat those cheap plastic gears before. They fall out in pieces when you drain the oil.

Thank you ol'George for the help. I will start ripping her apart this weekend. Just the PTO and rear cover hopefully.

I have the remote filter with hoses.

And BTW, 2400 hours on the clock.

Drain the oil before you remove the cover plate of it will all run out,making a mess.
The cover plate will either have a gasket or sillycone as a sealer, I'm betting on silly cone, and try to remove it carefully to see if the relief spring & ball valve is in place
http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-c...999/crankcase/
#16 is the spring/ball & locator ( the locator looks like a thin wall roll pin)
and is just a hand push in