The chassis service manual for the 70/100 (that's this one)
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/70-100%20Service%20Manual.pdf
doesn't say a lick about pto's

Look at this one for pto info around page 2-41.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x2-3%20Service%20Manual.pdf

Thanks Ironman. I thought I was crazy. I read through the 70-100 manual twice.

Another newbie question or two.

In my previous experiences I found that sometimes it was best to have a parts tractor in stead of looking for parts one at a time.

So:

From what i have read my 100 is considered a Narrow Frame. It looks like a 70 would be almost exactly the same except for the 7hp engine.

What other model numbers would have complementary parts? I see 71,72, 73 out there as an example. What about any parts off an original ? Specifically the fenders. ( Please understand...I would not take apart an original to get parts for my 100. I do respect these old tractors and do my best to resurrect them. I am talking about when I see parts listed)

Is there a compatibility chart somewhere or a way to search a P/N to see what models it is used on?

I rebuilt the Starter/ Generator as it was noisy. It was charging OK. I replaced the brushes and bearings and cleaned the inside with compressed air. I put it all back together and it starts great and also charges, but... and I did not test this prior to rebuilding, but I suspect it has always been like this. At medium rpm it charges a little over 14 V but at hight RPM it seems to increase and gets up around 15V. Seems high to me. I have read about checking and adjusting V/R and it seems that the consensus is better to replace it.

What do you guys think? I always thought that 14.5 was kind of tops for output. Am I being too picky or would you suggest replacing the V/R?

Sounds like everything is working well but v/r needs to be adjusted. There are movebale tips inside of it. There's a procedure in the service manual on how to do it, I would adjust it.

Just drive it around half throttle. :biggrin2:
It does seem high though. Not too far off though so a slight adjustment and you are golden. I've never had one do that so I'm no expert. Usually the ones I get won't charge and I woose out and buy a new one.

Thanks Guys, I will look up the adjustment and give it a try. Will be a bit now as I pulled it off the tractor again as I am moving on with my winter project to clean things up, do some priming to be ready to paint in the spring.

I Finally had some time to finish pulling the tractor apart. Everything came part fairly easily except the front axle pin. Tried heat and PB Blaster , but without luck so I decided to cut it. I have a spare axle and pin.

After I got it out I was able to press it out with a 20 ton press and noticed a couple of things.

Looking to learn more about these older Cubs.

First the other pin I have has a recessed area to accept grease and secondly the other axle I have has a grease zerk. The PN for the axles is the same except for the R# with the one with the zerk having a higher number.

Do the R# stand for revisions?

Was the original axle pin on the 100 solid like mine or did someone swap out the original for a piece of rod?

Thanks

The R does stand for revision. The 70 and 100 had the solid pin with no grease zerk. Most guys find that the pin is seized into the axle. Mine took heat and a 20 ton press to remove as well.

Thank you. Are all the pins the same length? Looking at places that sell them they seem the same from 70 on.