There were gears replaced in the trans. If first was one, it will have to wear in. It would have no wear pattern, and the mate to it would. That would cause noise.

What you mean I shouldn't just rely on my back to split one of these? :bigthink:

I am glad to report that I have cut the grass 2x now that I have the tractor back and repaired. With ear plugs in I am not bothered about the loud sound from the tranny and with the blades spinning and the throttle up I don't hear the loud gear noise...and it is only taking me half the time to cut the front lawn with the bigger mower deck..

Reaching out again to the experts. By the end of the mowing season last year I had to take the tractor back to the mechanic to get then clutch adjusted as I was having trouble getting it into gear and dirt in the carb was preventing it from running at low idle. I am now having the same issue. I know that I need to install an inline fuel filter. Bought one from Hamilton Bob but have not gotten around to it yet. It is paining me to jam the tractor in gear to mow the yard. Does anyone have simple step by step on adjusting the clutch? I don't want to wait 2 more months to take it in for service as I have to wait until the mechanic is finished fixing the farmers hay equipment.

If the tractor has a sediment bowl, and the screen is still in it, you don't need an inline fuel filter. Clean the sediment bowl, check the screen, drain the carb and see what that does.

Take the tunnel cover off. If you can't see how the clutch adjusts, just wait on the mechanic. It's pretty obvious. Unless you are hard on a clutch, it shouldn't need adjusted this often. How often do you shift this thing? You don't rest your foot on the clutch while driving it do you?

Here is a link to the repair manual(s):
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/P...um=&doSearch=Y

We had a ford tractor that the clutch kept going out of adjustment, we adjusted it 4 times over 3 months and then finally it stopped working entirely, turned out that the pin holding the clutch fork to the pedal shaft had been slowly sheering off.

Lo-Boy clutch works pretty much the same way as a cadet. Not saying it couldn't be something like that... but it uses a rod set up like a cadet..... just backwards, because the clutch is on the transmission.

I assumed it was more like a tractor clutch. I've never worked on a Lo-Boy trans before.

They are weird. Mix between a tractor clutch and a CC clutch.... and some elements of a truck clutch, like the clutch brake. They're altogether different, but really simple. Biggest oddity is the location, on the trans input shaft.

The 154s and 185s have the same goofy clutch setup like Jon said mounted at the input end of the transmission. Now this setup uses two pucks about 1/2" in diameter to stop the shaft from spinning when the clutch pedal is depressed. They wear out along with everything else. Hamilton Bob has most of the parts and I highly recommend replacing just about everything in that setup. Plan on spending some serious money. Also the pedal linkage wears away too and that requires some welding and fitting skills to get all of the slop out of the linkage. Not a hopeless situation....just expensive!