I was looking at the schematic and I can't find what powers the fuel solenoid. Sam do you have the the wiring diagram for the "installation of relays to prevent voltage problems" from Cub Cadet?

Guys

I don't want to cause any troubles for the forum. I know that I can't tell you how to get around the safety switches and I have no intention of doing so. All I can say is that what I did satisfies what the system needs in order to function. The way it is setup at the moment is only for my use and if I ever decided to sell it I would need to put all of the safety switches back in operating condition. To do otherwise is just asking for a lawsuit. So sorry but I’m not going to put myself or this forum at risk by publishing what I did.

I did away wit all the safty switches on my 1872 cause the P/O trashed the harness. All the saftey stuff is gone on all of my stuff now. The last being the 106 cause the switch crapped out. I noticed on the 2072 that the brake switch is broken so that wont work when Im done with it.

I kinda look at it 2 differant was. Yep the nnay state stuff is for a reason, you should see some of the crap people bring into the shop, but you cant fix stupid! Danny is living proof of that when he flipped his tractor over on himself. I know Ill get the scolding for letting my kids ride tractors, but having the safty switch on the 100 wold have never prevented his stupidity and lack of judgement for thinking it was his quad! Those of you that were at Dons place to plow remember the creek by the food and sighn in table, that where he filpped it down in to the dreek.


I preach safety to my kids and others around me, but some times commen sense is worth more that 100 safety switches. I can scold you all in the way some of you move your cubs down the road, and the way you tie them off on the trailer. Its just not one thing to consider in the safety area for a brake switch or seat switch. How about what you do in the shop, behind the wheel, crossing the street. Theres been many a pic posted, me to here, of questionable safety habits..... ok Im done and will now step down oh and the coment on the relay has realy nothing to do with the safety system in the maner hes stating.

I like the diod thing. A doid only let power or amps flow one way.

No problem on my end! I didn't realize the question I asked was about a safety switch, I'm more focused on the delayed start problem from running the juice through the ignition switch. I thought he might have a better solution than the relay.

Guys

Cub uses a diode in most of the later tractors in order to supply power to the fuel solenoid during the crank cycle. It allows power to flow to the run circuit but not back to the starter solenoid once the key is turned to the run position. I used the factory diode as installed by cub on my 2182. Hope this clears up any questions. I hope this doesn’t violate any forum rules.

Sam

Everything so far is ok with this thread but I could see where it was heading and I wanted to stop it before it got there. Wanting to know how to bypass the safety switches comes up several times a year, so this isn't unexpected.

Duke

I was not ever going to explain how to bypass the safety switches. Been around too long to play that game.

Got the old girl running nice, now I'm waiting for a new drive shaft. Looks like the PO never knew the CV joints had grease fitting on them. Didn't plan on needing to replace it but better now while it's easy to get at. Going to check the valve lash also while the hood is off. I'm probably going to replace the bearings in the PTO while I have it off, they are getting a little stiff from old age, kind of like the owner LOL. Just got it nice and warmed up and did an oil change, cut the filter open to check for any signs of trouble so far all good.

Sam

Sam, where do you see the diode powering the solenoid? The print I have only shows it powering the mag and the fuel pump during cranking. I'm just checking to see if my print is wrong or I'm missing something. Thanks.

Oak

Shoot me a PM and I'll explain.

Sam