Thanks for the info. Pictures sure clear up a lot of questions. Looks like my engine might be an original (although rebuilt already once before). Good planning on Kohler's side to use tags that are easily destroyed when you need those numbers for proper identification when ordering parts. Could have made more sense to eliminate the tag altogether and just stamp the numbers into the shroud.

I have three QL engines with the same tag. Only one is readable. The older Kohler engines had much more durable tags.

You are doing an outstanding job on your tractor. The paint looks flawless. Congratulations, when you are done you'll have a machine that will work hard for another 40+ years.

"8187578" would make that a 1977 engine. The Quietline Series ran from Oct 1974 to Sep 1979. So, I am quessing it is an OEM Engine.

Finally had some time to add more parts and prepare for an initial run. Had some doubts all along about condition of engine, starter and bendix operation and voltage regulator condition. For an initial $110 tractor investment it all turned out well. The epoxied broken magnet for the starter stator and bendix worked fine. The engine started on first turnover, no smoke or strange noises, regulator putting out 14+ volts. Aftermarket cheap carb works but adjustments are crude (many turns to make a difference). Next, adjusted return to neutral bracket for no creep of rear axle. Now that that's done, the fender pan and other associated sheet metal could be installed. Retorqueing the head bolts requires quite a bit of disassembly on the Quietline to access the head bolts. A rainy day will be a good time to do this. Now onto the cleanup of the model 2 tiller that I will hang on the back of the 1450. Getting the tine pipe off the output shaft of the model 2 was a challenge, but persistence paid off (along with a lot of hot wrench)! It would have been so much easier for the PO to slide the tines off occasionally, clean the shaft and lubricate than it would be to let them rust on, then have to beat them off (although, I guess it wasn't all that hard for him). :bash2: Can't wait to use the hydraulic lift on the 1450 as an upgrade to the manual lift of the model 1 tiller mounted to my 127. Even with a spring assist, it gets old quick for my 70 year old arms. Pictures are 1) After initial run and adjustments, 2) hood installed, 3) Fender pan and seat installed. Stay tuned for tiller progress!

Looks very nice. Great job :beerchug:

:beerchug::beerchug:

would like to do that to one of my GTs one of these days, if I ever get caught up on all the rest of my to do list.... gotta settle for "they run-- and function" for a while.

Just do it! Start taking things off and before you know it you'll be at the point that it makes no sense to put it all back together without fixing, cleaning, and painting things. After all, you wouldn't want to have to do all this a second time, right? Okay, so that's what happened to me Nd I'm almost done with disassembly.

Been waiting for parts to finish the 1450, so ............been working on a refurbish of the #2 tiller I picked up to hang off the back of the 1450. The parts finally arrived so back to the 1450. Installed a battery cutoff switch to eliminate any drain if I inadvertently left the ignition switch on, or a quick disconnect means if some drastic short happens. Probably overkill but it fit in the space quite nicely, so why not. Just have to get in the habit of using it religiously when you walk away from the tractor for the day. Kind of like the habit of checking the oil every time before starting the engine. Battery box fit nice and tight after trimming the frame rails 1/4" each side. Box keeps the battery clean, isolates the posts from shorting on anything, and keeps any battery acid from rusting the tractor.
And a few pictures of the progress on the #2 tiller.

:drool2:

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