Hygard, hytrans, or gear lube will be fine, I run a 80w90 in my 108 and haven't had any issues.

Can this be just a stop light switch? You have 2 wire holder just behind it who are bolt on the foot rest probably to hold the wire going under the tractor. I wonder if the brake/clutch pedal arm made contact with the spring loaded switch to open a circuit and close it when the pedal is pressed. What else this switch can control on a mechanical PTO GT?

I had a little time today so I decided to pick a project that could stand alone. Yesterday I removed the air cleaner assembly and bead blaster it, touched up a few more heavily pitted areas with bonds. I sanded those this morning and got a coat of primer on them. I probably won't put any finish paint on until spring.

Anyway today I undertook removing the front PTO. It wobbles so the bearing is shot. I was not having any success getting the set screws off, but with a block of wood and a mallet I was able to drive the assembly off the crank shaft with the bearing intact. The crank shaft appears to be OK.

Now I need to try and take it apart. One of the small tabs is missing on the fiber disk. Not sure if that is an issue or not. I looked up the PN 478 351 R1 and don't find any listed anywhere??? There appear to be some for other models but not the 100. It looks like the bearing is still around.

I may end needing to drill out the set screws. From what I can tell I only have the bottom ones. The ones with the points.

Any tips or suggestions on taking this apart or where to get the fibre disk would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bill

I said in the beginning of the thread that I'm thinking it was a clutch start or brake light switch. Definately was cable/linkage activated because you can see the little tab on the clutch/brake lever for it. I still think it might have been a dealer add on because of the "wire holders" as you said Gilles, they look like the ones that route the harnesses in our Cubs unless they were taken off near the engine and repositioned back there.

Lew what say you?

Edit: that switch is cool. The Clum switch company seems to date back to the early 1900's and some of their early switches are looking like they might be of some value.

Alvy, thanks for feedback on the switch. I have been looking around and it looks I can find the parts I need. It looks like using IH P/N's works better than what I have from the CC parts catalog that I have.

Just need to finish taking it apart to see what all I need. At least now that I have it off the tractor if I do end up needing to drill out the set screws I can use my drill press.

In the back of the pto where the bearing is, you will notice that the points on the set screws do not prick into the sides of the bearing.

The point actually goes behind the bearing. In theory, the tighter you tighten the screws the further they would push the bearing into the pto.

This probably doesn't really mean much to you EXCEPT, when you drill through the screws and the drill bit hits the bearing, if you aren't very careful, it will almost always break the drill bit.

I which case, you now not only have a stuck set screw, you also have a broken drill bit that you can't get out.

Also keep in mind that those set screws are HARD, your drill speed should be very slow and keep the hole being drilled full of coolant/cutting fluid.

I personally will spend tons of time extracting the screws and exhaust every effort to remove them rather than drill even one of them out.

One other word of caution, if you take the pto apart and try to drive the bearing out the back side without getting the set screws out of the way, you will break the casting rendering it useless, and expensive to replace.

Good Luck

Agree completely with Sam. Those set screws are HARD. Not only do you risk breaking a drill bit you risk destroying the threads. I had a couple that did not seem to budge. I filled the hole with a penetrating fluid, I believe I used PB blaster. I let it set for a day or two and finally using a new allen wrench got it out.

Thanks Guys I will take your advice and make every effort to get them out. I am not in any rush.

Well that was not as bad as expected. I had let it soak overnight with PB Blaster, but was still unable to move any of them this morning. I read about using a Torx bit slightly larger than the allen and driving it in. I tried that and two of three came out within minutes of getting a good bite into the allen. As it was those two had the double set screw. I used the Torx on the outer one and a regular allen on the inner. The last one only had one allen, the long pointy one. Did not want to move even with the Torx bit driven in. I filled the hole with PB blaster and heated it for about 3 minutes with MAP and tried again. Still nothing. Got my impact hammer with a pointed bit so that I was only hitting the center of the allen and ran that for a minute or two to try and break the bond. Drove the Torx bit in again and it backed out without any problem.

Also got the bearing out without issue. It is very wobbly and feels like gravel turning it.

Always better to be lucky than good !

Now I need to take an inventory of parts needed to rebuild it.

Is there a manual somewhere that describes setting this up properly? I see that there is a gauge that comes with these rebuild kits. Also putting this back onto the crank shaft? I found a service manual, but it only describes the 70 and 100 chassis, it does not get into PTO.

I assume that the bearing needs to go on the crank first since that was suppose to stay when I removed the PTO. Just wondering how far onto the shaft it goes. Maybe it is obvious.

Forgot to mention the Torx bit was a T20

Everything you need to know about setting up and adjusting the pto will be in the service manual (download it from the tech section).

The bearing needs to be flush with the end of the shaft. If the new bearing comes with a snap ring in the bore, take it out and throw it away, it isn't used in this application.

When you go to put this back together, slop a little anti-seize on the engine shaft, inside of the boar of the pto and some on the set screws. You never know when you may have to take it back off again, this will also make it easier for the next guy who has to rebuild it.