I have already replaced all of the seals on my hydro pump.

Exactly! You bet that is the very first 4 seals you check, and make triple sure, before you even think about the cork gasket being bad.

I'm in the same boat. Just bought a Cub Cadet cork gasket, and before I could start the tractor, I noticed that pretty colored Hy-Tran leak. I must agree with Sam, on the notion that MTD passed gaskets that were not with in tolerance. Or who ever made them for MTD.

Same here, I don't care for leaks crapping up my tractor,..............

:beatdeadhorse:

I wish you success, and good luck this time around!

Have either of you replaced the bolts? I'm just wondering if you are using longer bolts and they are bottoming out in the tapped holes and not pulling things up tight. What about buying some sheet cork gasket material and cutting your own gasket?

Later Non IH Cadets eliminated the drain hole in the hydro unit, the oil drains back thru the bearing hydro's output bearing. The old IH units with the drain hole has a tiny area to seal...just below the drain hole.

On my next cork gasket replacement job, I'm considering to plug the drain hole in the hydro unit and maybe the rear end. This would increase the area to seal with RTV.

Thoughts?

On our 2072 we suspected the hydro unit was not performing properly and replaced with another identical hydro unit and a new gasket. The replacement hydro leaked around the cork gasket. We ordered two new cork gaskets and used one on the replacement hydro but it still leaked. We then put the original hydro back in and used the remaining cork gasket and finally our leak stopped using a new gasket but stuck it on one side and used ultra grey gasket sealer. That was a lot of work with as many changes we made but no more puddles make me smile.

Hope the repair is going smoothly. As mentioned earlier, I have the exact problem with the new composite cork gasket from Cub Cadet/MTD. Well, after rereading this thread, I know with out doubt, that I installed my gasket with the sticky side on the trans axel, and not the pump.

Something made me ask myself, before I placed it where I did,..... because the mating surface area of the trans axel is rather grooved and not perfectly smooth as that of the mating surface area of the pump. So, why would I want the sticky side on the grooved area of the trans axel? Shucks. I don't see how the sticky side can seal the course area of the trans axel.

For about a week now, I have been pondering at the many reasons why I still had a leak before I turn a wrench again. Though my discovery might not be the answer, but it sure does pay to go back and reread any related material.

Here's what I'm going to try:

1. install "sticky" side to the pump, as suggested.
2. I think I'll use a layer of the Ultra Black silicone between the gasket and trans axel. I did not use any silicone the first time, it was dry installed.

Some folks swear by using neoprene gasket material for a gasket. If the second time is a failure, I will try the neoprene.

John that's what I did the last time, (sticky side to the pump and a little sealer to the rear side) and not a drop of fluid since and we have been using it hard so I'm very happy happy happy lol.

When we replaced our 2072 gasket the last time we cleaned, I mean really cleaned both of the surfaces. We used a single edge razor blade to carefully clean any possible residue from both surfaces. This could have helped with the leaking problem too. We then sneaked the blade back into the wife's leg razor. Do you think she will notice.