Well, I dug out the 42" rear PTO Bush Hog. There were no problems at all the drive shaft held up fine with no issues. I was originally going to dig out the rear PTO tiller, but that thing is buried so deep in the shed it would take me hours to get to it. I figure that if the mower works fine, there should be no problem with the tiller. GOOD JOB SAM! :beerchug:

Built up a drive shaft for a 1772 today from a 2000 series. Just thought I’d show you guys how to do one.
First step is to stick the shaft in a lathe and cut the weld off the flange on one end. Then measure the distance from the engine bolt flange or drive cup to the pump adapter. Next you cut the remaining tube 3/8” shorter than the measurement you just took. Then you put the cut of flange from the shaft back on the shortened tube and re weld it. Assembeled length should be 1/8” shorter than the space between the drive cup and pump adapter to allow for some movement. I use grease to hold the plastic drive barrels in place during assembly. Then you simply bolt the whole thing back together.

Looks great Sam. I'm sure the new owner will be happy.:beerchug:

If at some point the blue plastic drive barrels need replacing this is the part number from the Cub site.

759-3764
KIT, DRIVE BARRELS
Price $12.64

This is enough to do one end so you would need 2 for the whole shaft. So far even on some 900 plus hour tractor I have not seen any that needed replacing.

X2!:beerchug:

Nice job, Sam!

This is a conversion I've been looking for. Is it possible to move this into the technical section and add some more detail like part numbers of the components, more detailed dimensions of the shaft and which 2000 series model drive shafts work better than others if applicable. I also wanted to say nice work and innovation on the shaft.

chevy

Let me know what your trying to do and I'll try to help. Not sure it's worth putting in the tech section. I start with a used 2000 or 3000 shaft and cut it to fit weld it up and rock and roll. All depends on the tractor in question.

I have a 1572 that has a well worn driveshaft and disconnect clutch setup and I've been looking for something to replace that setup. Right now the tractor is all apart undergoing a much needed restoration so it will be a while before I can get the rear and engine back into the chassis. That's why I was curious about the engine and pump adaptors as well as what shaft and fan you used. Even though the tractor is a bit of a basket case I think it's well worth keeping vs buying a new one.

No problem doing a 1572. I can make the adapters for the pump and the engine, the shaft is a simple deal. You will need to drill and tap the pump input shaft for the newer style pump drive adapter.