I don't know if it will help you fellows, but on my 782 I made a 3" "C" shaped bracket and mounted it to the cross piece that origionally mounted the manual box.
It sits on top of the cross piece directly above the 2 holes (3" higher) that the manual steering.
The steering wheel winds up 1" closer to the dash (using a deere p.s. Gear)
The gear just clears the driveshaft 1/4"
Sorry about the lousy pix, but the bracket is on the left side of pix mounted to the bottom of the gear.

I did the same thing!
 

That's funny George because after trying to get the big bracket I bought from Extreme to fit, I realized that the two holes on the cross brace were originally there for that purpose. I took my bracket and cut off the side mounting holes and bent the remainder so that it was down and the mounting plate with the big hole and four smaller ones was up. Then I used the OEM steering column to locate the new holes and then welded nuts to the back of the bent plate and now have a bracket like yours and Oak's. I also learned that you have to use the two hydro lines that run under the tranny tunnel cover because of their impossible to recreate shapes. I got the return line, the left one sitting on the tractor, to fit on a "T" coming off of the implement lift valve where it was attached before at the out port. I discovered that if you use a male, male, female "T", with the female end connecting to the valve, it allows you to turn the middle outlet any which way you need to to fit the return line. The OEM return line was actually a perfect fir after about a hundred tiny bends and twists. On the other line, the pressure line, I ended up with it straightened out and turned downward toward the bottom of the steering valve. I will use a short hose with a union and 90 Degree terminal for that connection. That only leaves the Aux port on the PS valve to go to the "in" port on the lift valve. I will probably use another short hose with a straight female end and a 90 degree on the other end. I'll take some photos and put them here for any of you stupid, er uh, brave enough to do this conversion.
Another thing I found out when bending and fitting the hard lines is that ALWAYS screw the tranny end on first every time you remove and replace it.
Even if you have to do it a hundred times, like I did, always screw the tranny end on first. You don't have to tighten it but snug it up with your fingers.
The reason is that it is the known shape and it must be maintained and the other end is the new one and is being changed. I think I figured out why the ram was hitting the tire. The steering arm was too far forward of the axle when going straight ahead and when a left turn was initiated it went too far forward and allowed the ram to hit the wheel. I also added two inches to the height of my steering column because it was too low for my taste. I could actually hit my knuckles if I was turning and changing speeds at the same time due to my steering knob and with the new seat it sat me up a little higher than originally. Now I can sit back and reach the wheel without getting the old farmer's hunch. I want all of you to know that I am going to paint every thing after I get it all fitted!

Way to stick with it! I think you've turned the corner on this upgrade. Looking forward to your finished PS upgrade!:beerchug:

I totally agree!

Where to find 37 degree flaring tool?
 

I have looked all over ebay, CL and NAPA but no one has a reasonable 37 degree flaring tool. Is there one out there that I don't know about that you guys have discovered? If I can't find a cheap one I guess I'll have to pay to have them flared. NEVER MIND! I found one at Amazon.com for $20.

45* flair works just fine.
I never had one leak, the line conforms to the 37* fittings.

You and I think alike George.
 

I figured with all of these CC all over the country and the number of owners that are going to go out and buy a 37 degree flaring tool has got to be small. I figured that the ball shape of the Jic fittings would reform the 45 degree to it's shape since the tubing is soft metal. But in any case I found a cheap 37 D and will see how it goes. I might not use any more line since the three short lines I need can all be hoses. I like hoses around moving parts and near the ground because they offer more resilience to bumps and pushes. George has done some pretty hydraulic work with those nice symmetric lines going into the valve. Mine will be a little more utilitarian. I have question about the start up when I get it all back together. What's the procedure to get oil into all of the new lines? On the FEL I built it was to cycle the control valves a few times until things started to happen. Do I do the same thing now. Man I can't wait to be sitting high and steerig with my arms straight out and my back in the seat smelling that E85 flowing out of my Kohler M18! I'll be sure to let you all know what the difference is from my old tractor.

Just cycle the steering/lift control while the engine is running slow. the oil will learn how to find the "cheese" and never forget :biggrin2:
You will like the P.S, no more sore arms after 3+ hours mowing around many trees/obstacles.

George, the mind reader!
 

That's exactly why I wanted the PS! I have about two acres and lots of shrubs and trees to mow around. When these CC's are moving real slow turning is a bear. At the end of the day my forearms felt like lead and I am starting to look like Popeye! Thanks for the tip on getting the oil to all the parts.

It's alive!!!!
 

I got everything connected today and started the old girl up. The wheels started turning in about one minute with no effort and there were no leaks! I had to re-weld the axle adjusters back on my 1811 frame because the axle moved back and forth from the ram action and it made a real sloppy control. Now the only slop I have is in the old ball joints on the ram ends. It was so nice to take her out for a spin around the yard and wheeling around trees and objects without any effort. I learned a lot doing this project but like most things will probably never do it again. However I will be glad to help anyone who sets out to try it. One of the monkey knots was putting the hydraulic fittings on to the PS valve! You have to go in an order or you cannot get the wrench on the next fitting. Also never start a hyd fitting with anything but your fingers. You should be able to turn it several times before reaching for the wrench. I ended up going with three rubber hoses instead of making hard lines. One good reference for making the hoses lengths were the two ram short hoses. I put a union between them and then used that for my new hose template. As it turned out that was the exact length I needed for two of the new lines and the long ram hose, about 10 inches, was the exact length for the pressure line to the PS valve. I was able to re-bend the OEM lines under the tunnel cover so that one of them went to the lift valve and the other with a union and short hose connected to the PS valve. One big difference I noted AFTER I got home with the new hoses is that the old hoses had about a 1 1/2 inch metal crimp ring and the new ones had about 2 inches. That made a huge difference in their bendablity and fitting them into tight places. It doesn't seem like it would but boy it did. If I can answer any question for anybody feel free to ask me. And thanks for the help everyone offered me during many moments of panic and doubt.
Rudy:beerchug: