Thanks Ironman - that is it. I grabbed mine, looked where you pointed and there it was. Reassuring to know I'm not missing something.

Is there a favorite replacement seat for 149's. My seat pan is pretty rusty. I think it is the original seat, but I don't know for sure - the cover was certainly not original. I am guessing the cost to get this cleaned up and reupholstered is going to be quite a bit more than just buying an aftermarket seat?

I buy my seats from Northern Tool. This seat used to be $99, looks like price has gone up. Somebody may have a less expensive version. Haven't bought one in a couple years.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...9222_200519222

[QUOTE=sawdustdad;478221]I buy my seats from Northern Tool. This seat used to be $99, looks like price has gone up. Somebody may have a less expensive version. Haven't bought one in a couple years.

Thanks sawdustdad - I was wondering if that was the route to go. No doubt I'll be heading down that path. Thanks for the advice.

Electrolysis should clean up a pan like that nicely , but ware would one get a cover that would look ok ?

Wow, I had to look that up, I've never seen that done before. One day I am going to give that a try, looks like a great process. :Thanks:

Set up right electrolysis will clean rust and paint, and it is a cheap way to clean parts without all the work.

I'm still sanding, prepping and priming pieces. Saving the frame for last, as it looks the hardest to do. Just need the temps to go up so I can move on to some painting.

A little off topic, but oh well. Drove over 2 hours, one way, to pick up a couple narrow front wheels and look at Mac's stuff. WOW! Custom pullers, stock survivors and restored beauties. Great guy, great collection and I got to buy a couple things I didn't even know I needed. Well worth the drive (even having to drive through Denver). Video on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVhm0I01Yho

Temperature got above 50 for a couple days so I did a little painting. Went down and got the tires mounted on the wheels today. I am glad I got the narrow front wheels, they have the look I wanted. I also took my seat pan to a couple local upholstery shops; one said he couldn't do it and other said $200. I will save the original pan (just in case), but I am just going to buy a nice aftermarket seat and call it good.

Nice work! :ThumbsUp:

Thanks, I'm trying. :beerchug:

Two hours is local! Got to drive to get what you want, so far this year I’ve gone 4 1/2 one way for an attachment, then couple weeks later 5 hrs and going Saturday 5 hrs south to pick up a gem. 149 coming along nicely, good job

I'm with you Rmowl. It was worth the drive, if for no other reason to meet a great guy and get to look at his tractors. I am enjoying trying to get this thing put together. Thanks!

Rebuilt the steering box today. Pretty easy task and not too expensive. Added the upgrade kit, new cam follower, foam gasket and a lot of grease. Glad I did it.

Nice work! :beerchug:

Thanks twoton. Looking for some nice weather so I can get the painting done. I have to do it outside, so I need 50+ degree days. Not going to see them for a while unfortunately.

What is this upgrade kit that you speak of ?

Wagonmaster, The kit consists of (2) precision steel shims , a thrust bearing & a Nylon locknut. The second washer is included just in case your old existing one is worn out. Fits 70 thru 782 Ross Steering Columns and others with 5/8" bolts

It is available here: https://www.ccspecialties.org/fuel_tuneup_maint.html for $14 plus shipping.

Everything I've read says it makes a difference in ease of steering I can't say yet as my tractor is still in a lot of little pieces.

Excellent !!!! Wish I new about this years ago.:biggrin2:

Nice job, looks clean. I used the kit on a 126, with tri ribs feels like power steering

That what I've heard Rick. I am putting on some narrow tri-ribs too. I am looking forward to feeling the difference. It does make sense that it would turn easier with that bearing on there.

For other newbies - good to know that other brand rear wheel weights may fit just fine. Our Sears is going out of business so I got two 55# wheel weights for about $50 plus tax - and they fit like they were made for it.

On the 149 steering wheel, I am guessing the center emblem was just a foil with a sticky back. Is that correct? I cut a piece of steel to fit in mine that I can attach with double sided tape and the new sticker would have a place to adhere to. What is everyone else doing about the steering wheel center emblem?

I do virtually the same thing. aluminum flashing, cut to fit. Apply decal.

Thanks, I am the right track then. I cut mine from 14ga steel, hopefully it will stay put.

I was planning on doing the same for my 149 steering wheel as well.

Temperatures were up today so I decided to do some painting. I have to paint outside. Everything was going really well; working on the third coat of white and "whoosh" a gust of wind comes through and suddenly I have a bunch of crap stuck to my wet paint! Sometimes a fella's patience gets seriously tested! :bash2:

I am missing the springs and spacers for my rear brakes. Does anyone know of a source or something else that can be used. I'm not even exactly sure what the spacer looks like or does? Thanks in advance for any advice.

I gave up and just bought a spring from Ace and shoved it in, hopefully it will work ok

LESSON LEARNED - I have the brakes that don't require a spacer or spring. Thanks to Dart1917 and cooperino for educating me! That is a great relief.

I decided I wanted my air cleaner to be a little different, so I painted it black and made a sticker for it. Just wanted to make sure there was no confusion on who made it.

Basket Pulley slips 1/8 turn
 

With the PTO removed should the basket pulley be able to shift 1/8 turn? It stops where the holes lines up with the set screw holes, but can move 1/8 turn clockwise. It feels like it locks at both ends of travel, but it shifts with some pressure. The front bearing has not been removed. Thanks.

What it sounds like you are saying is that the basket pulley is not solid on the engine crankshaft. If that interpretation is correct, well it should NOT move once tightened down with the allen screw. If the pulley hub is moving on the crankshaft, your square key must be sheared. On the other hand, if the hub is solid on the crank and the pulley moves, then the hub/pulley weld must be broken.

Get that sucker off there and see what's worn.
Sounds like the keyway on the crank and/or the pulley itself are about to bite the dust, or, the key stock itself is badly worn, or a combination of all three adding up to lots of slop.

- Your interpretation is spot on. I can't even see the key, I had to slide something up the slot to feel it. I guess I have to pull the bearing off and check it out. Thanks for the guidance.

Nice job on the air cleaner! :ThumbsUp:

Thanks. I know it isn't for everyone, but I thought it was tasteful.

Front PTO Basket Spins
 

Well I got it torn apart and discovered a few things:

I think the weld broke since the part with set screws spins 1/8 of a turn back and forth.

I think I should replace the collar and flange, they don't seem to lock together.

I'm not sure sure how long the key should be, but the one I have only fills the void under the pulley, should it also be under the collar?

What do y'all think?

It's probably the original key, only needs to be under the pulley assl'y as that is the only part that is keyed to the shaft. Parts lookup should tell what exact length if that is a concern
The collar is an eccentric lock and not a thread as such, I can see why some would call it that though.

If the pulley and basket part are not overly worn enough to throw the whole assl'y out of kilter and unbalanced enough that it would come "unglued" if re-spot welded, I would give that a try. Any body shop would be able to do that in about 5 minutes.
If not, it would call for a replacement.

Thanks finsruskw. I got four small spot welds on the basket, hopefully they hold. I also got some more painting done. Ready to get serious about reassembly.

The new paint looks very nice!

Nice work!