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Well a little more progress from before.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0443.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0444.jpg the ended up using Van Sickle paints. One becasue they are cheaper than most other, they have great reviews, and well... they work. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0450.jpg |
Looks GREAT!!
Keep up the progress, its going to be beautiful once complete. Thanks for the pics! :beerchug: |
If your ever swinging thru s.e. nebraska, I gotta 1450 you can restore since your so good at it!:beerchug:
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Very nice work! I over-achieved my 72 restoration, and had to remove paint from holes with a chain saw file, and remove paint from joints to line up correctly. I had also done a no-no and painted the 72 piece for piece, thus resulting in more chipped paint then needed when assemble came. My next IH Cub Cadet paint job will be done with as much of the tractor together as needed, respectably.
Nice, can't wait! :American Flag 1: |
Not trying to ruin your day..... but the hydro's aren't supposed to be painted. Just like cylinder heads. They cool better without paint. I've seen lots that are.......... but not supposed to be.
Nice work so far! |
I was kind of wondering that as the hydro was only half painted, but i opted to just straighten it all out at one time. We will see how it holds up to the heat.
The next step is sandblasting of the rest of the chassie components. Waiting on the fine folks at the farm store to get the rest of my paint in. The Van Sickle stuff is outstanding in the rattle cans. The sheen is great and its pretty tough even without a clear coat. The plan of now is to do the enitre chassie and then rebuild the engine. It was running and cutting when i took it out so im hopeing that it will be rather straight forward... but we all know how that goes. Still looking for a mule drive if anyone has one they would like to sell or trade. Im going to try to get the thread a little more technical as i go along to help some other out. I know i would have never taken on this project if it were not for Steves 1650 build on this site. So hopefully i can give some others encouragment. |
Well i dropped the frame and a bunch of other items off at the sandblasters this week. So hopefully i will have them back in time for the weekend. (its an old guy around the corner and he really doenst have a rushed bone in his body)
Otherwise i have just been piddling around with what i didnt take to the blaster (in hind sight i dont know whay i kept anything to hand jam) http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0480.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0481.jpg Also, my parts finally came in to let me finish up the rear end. Not too pricey. Ended up getting them offline as the cub dealer i my area is about 5 bucks more on each part. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0499.jpg Currently waiting on a shippment of paint to come in to the farm store before i can move anymore. However, does anyone have any personal clear coat favorites (rattle can) that they have used with van sickle. The paint itslef has a great sheen to it, but this will be a daily driver that i would like to keep looking good. |
Looks great! I used van sickle on my 1200 but mixed it and shot it with a hvlp gun. I know some guy on here used the same paint and wet sanded it and shot clear over it bu don't remember what clear he used
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Well, Got some parts back from the sandblaster. Honestly, worth the price of $45 an hour.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0502.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0501.jpg Had some scrap laying around, and it was a great weekend outside, so i built a little rack to paint most of the stuff up in the driveway. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0505.jpg honestly, this is a great time in the project. Things are comming together and i look forward to starting the assembly process. I still havent touched the engine, but i think a quick carb rebuild and some TLC will get it going pretty well again. |
for anyone who has wondered about blasting: He did everything but the sheet metal in 2 hours at $45 an hour + $24 in sand. I brought him some of the sheet metal and he thinks he can do some of it without it warping. So, im gonna let him to the seat pan and see if that works out well and i will go from there.
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I am excited to see you continue your restore. so far, its looking amazing. You went a lot deeper then I did. I didn't blast down my frame, axel or the hydro unit. You got a great deal on your blasting....I took my to a local guy and had everything blasted minus the items I listed above and it cost me $300. Something the wife wasn't pleased with. But, keep up the good work. I can't wait to see the rest of your progress.:beerchug:
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Looks good! What part of Missouri are you in?
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Thanks guys,
Bocephus, im out of Fort Leonard Wood. |
engine mount
Gijazbo now would the best time to have that blasted engine mount welded. There's a few threads floating around about it. And I'll ruffle some feathers I'm sure by saying..don't use shock absorber rubber cushions to mount the engine. There are a few suppliers of the kits.
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Got some more work done, it is slowly resembling a garden tractor again.
Quick question though, has anyone had an internal brake pad pop out. When i pulled the cover off during teardown, there was a little puck that i thought was a magnet (like in some oil pans). Turns out it is a brake pad, but i cant see how it would just squeek out of there :bigthink: http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0574.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0575.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0576.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0577.jpg |
Looking very nice.
If your guy hasn't started on your fender pan, you may want to reconsider blasting it. Work-Hardening isn't much of an issue on thicker parts such as the frame, but blasting tends to leave the thin stuff a bit brittle. |
Got the chance to do a little more work this weeekend. NEVER AGAIN will i use rattle cans. This was my first tractor job and i thought by the size i would be looking at a few rattle cans, boy... was i wrong. Anywho, just waing on some other little pieces and finishing up some paint.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0644.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0649.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0647.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0650.jpg Next weekend i will slap the rest of the sheet metal on, square up the linkage, and give the carb a bath. I was going to pull the whole engine apart and rebuild, but time is becoming of the essence (plow season). So i will run it until spring and tear it down for a good overhaul. Last thing, has anyone had any luck with that $10.00 seat cushion from colemans. Its probably a unicorn that sells blinker fluid, but maybe someone has some input. http://store.colemans.com/cart/repla...7s3agbmk83g7b1 |
Did you make any new progress over the weekend? maybe this weekend......?
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"Last thing, has anyone had any luck with that $10.00 seat cushion from colemans. Its probably a unicorn that sells blinker fluid, but maybe someone has some input."
No. I'm guessing that the quality will match the price; very low. :bigthink: |
You did a remarkable job rattle-canning those fenders. It's just about impossible to get the paint to flow out fast enough on a piece that big. You are right on about not going that way again. Nothing magical about spraying with HVLP. It's just like a big ol' rattle can that doesn't run outta paint as soon!
:beerchug: |
I have painted a few things things with HVLP before(mostly firearms coatings), i just left my compressor at my last duty station and refused to buy another. As for progress this weekend, i am waiting on the welder for the cradle mod, and parts. However, next weekend should be eventfull. Im hoping to fire it up and bring it back to life.
This is a going to be a worker, so i didnt bother pulling or filling dents or any crazy stuff like that. I just need a reliable rig that will roll for another 40 years. Well.... and my neighbor has a JD that i want to show up... |
Yeah you use a lot of rattle cans compared to a hvlp! I still use rattle for some small things . I've been wanting to get a smaller detail gun. I have a hvlp gun from harbor freight, does a great job! I've found when using primer( I use epoxy at work ) or crill mix it up and wait about 5 min before you put it in the gun and shoot it, it sticks better. Give it a light coat first let it flash the come back and spray it again. Just takes time , put to much on at once it will run.
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Well, in true keeping with any cub rebuild. I hit a stall, but have finally got back to work on the old girl.
Got the engine pulled apart and cleaned up all the mating surfaces. It heads to the machine shop tomorrow. Does anyone have any favorites for engine painting. Also, did you tape and paint, or rebuild and paint after everything was sealed? http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1069.jpg Got the wheels cleaned up and ready for rubber.I'm keeping the old rubber for now as 300 bucks for the ones i want will just have to wait until spring. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1070.jpg Also, doe sany in MO know a good upolsterer? Trying to see what the best option is for the seat. Got the brace welded in and primed it up. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1071.jpg Overall im getting really excited in the home stretch. It has cost more in time and money than i ver thought, but i kinda knew thart would happen, im greatly looking forward to selling my craftsman this spring and keeping this rig goign for another 40 years. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1072.jpg |
Looks good! As for painting the engine, I rebuilt mine and painted it after it was assembled. Make sure to get all the oil and grease off before priming. Don't paint the fins on the head or the block. Use epoxy primer or high heat rattle can primer then a engine enamel in satin finish. As for the seat I would go to tractor supply or orcselens and look at seats, unless your set on a original looking seat. You can check with occ sponsers and see what they have or eBay. I will tell you from experience, I scratched the $hit out of my rims putting tires on . I did like you and painted all of them first. Never again, I would prime and paint the inside then put the tire on and then paint the rest of the rim, masking and taping off the tires. I bought tires from morrow tire in Marshall Mo. Front and rear Ags, deestones I like them alright. Think they were around $200 - $250 for all 4. Looks good! Very detailed restore! I didn't take mine to all bare metal. I just did where there was rust. I sanded and primed the rest. I figure if the paint that's on it is not coming off easy , then it would be good to go. Oh I got decals from maplehunter , they look original. Very good quality!
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Well, as i look at all the threads i have worked off of i gaff at how i thought i would be done with this thing in a few months. I should have known that looking a the piston would cause a complete engine overhaul. I have made some progress, and i pick up the block from the machine shop next week.
cleaned and painet all the tins http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1235.jpg Degreased and organized all the remaining hardware. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1236.jpg finnaly got it rolling!!! http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1199.jpg Still looking for an upholstery shop for the seat and all the little doo dads, but its getting closer and closer. Which is good with spring around the corner. |
Looks great so far, keep at it and you'll have one sweet machine! :beerchug:
Bill |
On painting your rims: I do it w/the tires mounted and deflated. You can usually get the tire on the rim without screwing up the back side if it is already painted.
Get the tires on the rim, don't inflate them. take an old stretchy tee shirt or sweat shirt and cut a hole in the center about 2 or 3 inches smaller than the O.D. of the rim you are going to paint. Then stretch it over the rim, the mat'l will suck down under the bead of the tire and cover the sidewall of it leaving the rim exposed an paint ready. Has worked really well for me and ends the PITA of installing tires on painted rims W/O special tools. Good Luck!! |
2 Attachment(s)
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Well, over the past week i have been able to knock out some small jobs on the machine while awaiting the block returning from the machine shop.
I was going to buy a new muffler box from xtrememotorworks.com, but i decided instead to just beef it back up with some sheet metal and a whole bunch of rivets. Will it break again... yes... will it last a season or two.. probably. When it does break again i will poney up the $45 do get a new one. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...20complete.jpg Also got the seat on, i went with the CC replacement fo Northern tool. I also got slides as the wife likes to cut sometimes and she needs the seat up a bit. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...at%20Slide.jpg Also had some time to tinker with the left over sheet metal from the box. I was looking at IH emblems for the front grill and those buggers are darn near 25 bucks used! Well, i still need to band the edges with a strip of silver, but heres what i came up with. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...20Logo%201.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...20Logo%202.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...20Logo%203.jpg I should have the block back from the shop this weekend and i will start tearing into that. With any luck she will get fired up next weekend. |
If yer rims are already painted, put the tires on from the back side with the rim on a nice soft piece of old carpet.
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looking good nice work
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Looking good! Your emblem looks great!
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I have to say, these old K series are awesome to work on. Its was easy, with the help of Daves 1650 build thread, to throw it all back together and the only tool i had to purchase was a feeler guage. (just popped the rings through with a gentle screwdriver nudge)
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1316.jpg Also, I got my decals in from Maple Hunter and hot damn they were alot better quality than what i was expecting. I was quite impressed. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1392.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1394.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1388.jpg For the dash tin i simply used scotch pads to brighten up the silver and then hit it with a coat of gloss black. Like most other on here i just used the necessary parts of the dash sticker cut to fit. Unfortunatly the PO let the control lever bracket bend (since replaced with plate) and it wore down the plastic dash, but it doesnt bother me enough to try to find a new one. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1390.jpg I could use your help on these two little guys. I do not remember these anywhere on the teardown. Do you know where they go? http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1398.jpg Side note, CC wanted 26 bucks for a choke cable. This one is from NAPA its a 5 footer but its easy to cut to length. for $5 Bucks i call it a steal:beerchug: http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1320.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1324.jpg As she sits waiting on the last bit of parts... to inlcude an oil pan if anyone has one handy. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1397.jpg |
Looking good! The two small decals that are left over are not needed for your tractor.
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The release decal may still be important. Your tractor has the automatic release valves for the hydro and does not use the the release lever. However, you could put it on the right rear side of the tunnel cover to remind you NOT to tow the tractor.
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Well i finally got the old bird running, thank you to all that helped me figure out the error of my ways on my other threads. In my travels to get a Kohler Carb (which really wasnt the issue, but im glad i got it) i accidentally came home with a truckload instead of just a part....so it goes
parts tractor... came for free with the carb... :biggrin2: half the price of a knock of version from fleabay. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1617.jpg and a 50A deck(needs alot of bending back to shape... next to my already broken down 44A, and a Plow. ... 25 bucks i just couldnt pass up. Which seems to be the problem with these things. http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1618.jpg Now im just waiting for the weekend to rebuild the PTO that has a stuck bearing and swap out the relief valves so i can get the ones on there now off to Ohio for rebuilding. |
Snow blade and 50" deck for $25!!???? Wanting to part with the 50"??
Oh your 1450 looks very good you should be proud of yourself! Great job! |
Tractor looks great, and what a deal on the truck load:beer2:
It's a viscous cycle these cub cadets are....:bigthink: |
Well, shes all back together and did some laps around the yard. Still sputters under load/hills, but i should be able to work that out with a little patience and a small screwdirver.
as she stands now. For me this project was great. It took alot longer and alot more money than expected, but i learned a great deal along the way. Thank you for all those who helped me throughout the build. Once the deck is all back together ill see how she cuts http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1638.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1639.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1640.jpg However, it is getting a little crowded in here.... http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_1645.jpg |
Excellent ! I enjoyed this thread. She's ready for another 40 years of service
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