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Nice thought....I would notice. I'm looking for motors to rebuild. |
149 blowby
Hi, I had a similar problem with a model 100. Invested in rebuild: new rings, valves and had valve seats reground, knurled vavle guides, bore only need honing,
put on a good used head, and replaced carb with better used one. By the time I was done, it cost about $400 bucks. I did the tear down and reinstallation myself. The engine assembly I had done, since it was in shop already. An amazing difference! Much more power, uses 1/2 the gas to mow same area, and saved 1/3 of mowing time. I did this 7 years ago. The only problem since then was replacing head gasget. It burned out by the 3 bolts by exhaust vavle. |
Thanks for all the advice. The problem I have is the tractor can't be down for more than a week. It is the only one I have to mow with. I know what you are thinking, what if it breaks? Well, there is one solution. I found this on ebay and was hoping one of you rebuilders would check it out for me. Ask the guy specific questions or pick his brain to see if you think he knows what he is doing. I realize it is a shot in the dark but I would atleast have two engines to work with. Hopefully this one would hold out until I get the one I have rebuilt. Here is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...lenotsupported And no, I wouldn't hold anything against anyone that thinks it is good and it turns out to be a dog. I know it is impossible to know anything about it without a hands on but if you know what to ask, atleast you can tell by his answers if he really rebuilt it or what his knowledge is, etc........ |
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I'll ask this question: What is the worst that can happen and what might be the likely result? Not trying to tempt fate here guys or test your patience; just thinking out loud. Thanks. Rich |
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Pulling is a game of inches. Sometimes a pull is won by an inch or two. Having the motor in a puller at it's peak is a must to be competive no matter what class the tractor is in. Worse case the motor will be hard to start-be hard to get any decent compression and down on power. I would run the motor as it is to see if the friends' Son likes pulling. If he does working on the puller would be a good way for him to learn the mechcanical end of pulling. The motor could be worth something when you want to upgrade to a stronger motor in a few years if you spend the $$ on the motor now. You never know when another puller may want to buy the motor. Hearing the motor run while going the track can be a good selling tool. I had a gentleman who has a IH Cub Cadet 1000 that was smoking. He wanted me to look at motor and give him a price on rebuilding the motor. After measuring the cylinder wall for taper and out of round according to a Kohler service manual (page 11.2). The motor was on max limits before any machine work was done. I wanted to go to an .010 oversize piston and rings. The owner did not want to put anymore money in the motor than he had to. Owner just wanted to hone it, install new rings and use old piston. The old piston was in need of replacement. It had some scoring on the piston skirt. I did manage to talk the owner into new piston, rings and hone the cylinder. There were some fine scoring marks still in the cylinder wall after the hone. He manage to get around 100 hours before the motor start smoking again. This time the motor needed an .020 piston. Motor should have just getting broke in with a 100 hours on it.....not rebuilding it again. Piston, rings and gasket kit isn't cheap. Most times you can get 2 major rebuilds out of a motor before it needs to be replace or sleeved. A major rebuild should last 10 to 15 years if the owner takes care of the motor. |
my 126 needs new rings, one day i was mowing tall grass with it and you really couldnt beleve how heavy it was breathing. You can also tell when your old cub needs a rebuild she loses her power like mine.
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