'Lectrons don't care where they get jazzed up, or where they gotta go

Dirt and grease make a pretty good conductor also. Keep that stuff clean.

Rust is a pretty good conductor also.......

UPDATE....

For those points brought up that are vaild.......

Running out of gas and leaving the key on was NOT an issue for me.

NO, the HV Ign Coil does not have to be grounded to operate correctly. Isolating the coil by surrounding it with a rubber material sounds valid.

Richard...I know and value your opinions. I know your testing and AZ environment is HOT. Michigan doesn't come close to hot summers as compared to AZ :biggrin2.gif:
I simply can not say why two of my Kohler Ign Coils had a short life. Granted the first one was the original.

IIRC, I read somewhere (Old age & CRS creeps in here) that maybe it was Engineer David Kirk commented about moving the coil to a less harsh location. I am thinking, I will give this a try also.

Roland If you got 30 plus years out of the first coil I would say that is completely reasonable. Getting less than 2 years out of the second coil is not reasonable. The question is why?

If it was anybody else that had the problem I would have asked if they had bought a coil with the resistor in it and if they had checked their voltage regulator output, but knowing you I knew you had that covered.

With the quality of stuff we buy today you may have got a coil made in China.

There is nothing wrong with moving the coil to a better location, as a matter of fact I mounted my points saver on the gas tank mount to keep it away from the extreme heat.

The way the quietlines are built with the air flow under the tin across the engine and out over the muffler it should blow the heat away enough to be able to run a coil mounted on the outside of the engine tin being the coil is mounted on a bracket holding it away from the tin.

The next time I get done mowing when it is over 100 degrees I am going to see if I can put my hand on the coil without burning it. I know if you have a bad coil it gets hot to the touch almost imediately.

R Bedell,

I won't try to one up you on heat. But here in Toledo,Oh. it is not all snow in the winter. Summertime temps with humidity give us a factor that might make your dry heat feel not as bad. But more to the point. If your parts were made by Kohler rather than for a Kohler or that would fit a Kohler, then it stands to reason that you have extreme operating conditions. And I would try as drysumpjet said, the Bosch Blue coil. It is epoxy filled rather that oil filled and might be exactly what your extreme conditions demand.

I went through 3 Kohler coils in 2 years until I replaced it with a Bosch blue and it's been on there for 3 years now. Also, I can buy the Bosch cheaper at my VW parts house that I can get a Kohler coil for.

There could have just been a bad batch of Kohler coils that got out there. I got one exchanged under warranty at least.

If the first coil lasted over 20 years, then I would think the stock location is fine. Just a bad coil on the second one that failed.

Do you guys have the part
number for the bosch coils??
Thanks Jason

67hydro,

I don't have a part number. But you can get them and some other goodies here.

http://www.kirkengines.com/

RPalmer,
Got that one saved in my favorites,I agree he has some really awesome stuff.
Jason

There is another advantage of remote mounting the coil, especially on a Quietline.

The engine's sheetmetal on a Quietline frequently cracks in the stock coil mounting area. Out of frustration to address these cracks, some of us have added a second coil bracket.

Moving the coil off the engine to save the engine's sheetmetal seems to be a great solution, thanks for the idea!