You are supposed to use lock nuts on those rag joints...you won't crush them that way.

I made the same modification on my 1450 with very positive results.

:IH Trusted Hand:

Did you shorten the driveshaft to make room for the double couplers, or did you make new pin holes, or did they fit without modification?

In my case, I just drilled new holes for the couplers.....:ThumbsUp:

Ok, When I was looking at my hydro relief valves on my 1650 , the driveshaft just didn’t look right. There are 2 rag joints in the back but the metal couplers are bolted together, instead of 90* apart, making the rag joints just spacers. That’s why it was looking funny cause it made 2 of the bolts stick out almost hitting the fan. The single front rag joint that is shot and more of an oval, prolly cause all the extra tork. I see in the parts diagram about a bearing out back and some springs up front. It does not really show the springs on the cub parts lookup. Are they part on the rag joint assembly somehow up at the engine? How does the bearing keep things centered. i see on teh parts look up that some drive shafts require the ball bearing and some self alighning ball bearing. I haven’t ripped mine apart yet so I don’t know how mine goes together. Ok, so I want to add the second rag joint up front. RChristiansen was talking about using one of the quitline flex joints in conjunction with the older 1XX series. So I would put one of each on each end, correct. Which orientation does the quitlines one go, to the center of the driveshaft or outer…..I want to make it as stong as possible, just need to know what joints to buy and where to put em. Ill drill up a new driveshaft while im at it. In the two pics in the thread, some use lock nuts in places and lock washers in others.