When you turn the key and crank the engine does the amp meter move to the - side? May have fried it.

I found out that the solenoid isn’t getting any juice, and I may know why. The electrodes that I short circuited went to the amp gauge and the solenoid. There’s a neutral safety switch, pto switch, and magnetic switch on mine. but I need some help finding the neutral safety switch. It’s very possible that whoever had it before me removed them and spliced the wires. Both lighting attachment plug-ins have one wire connecting both sides of it and haven’t had any issues since i’ve had it.

One is under the tunnel cover, brake switch, the other is behind the gas tank, behind the white panel, PTO switch.

If those items are not getting juice when yoiu activate the switch, therin lies your problem.
Inspect the wire connections to and from the switch for corrosion.
Do you have the correct switch and is it operable?
Check it out with your meter and/or a test lamp

I took the whole wiring harness off for repair and I am going to bypass the pto switch when it all goes back on.

After removing the whole wiring harness and giving it a well needed patch job, it runs. I checked the starter just in case and sure enough, the brushes were worn to the metal, and I had an extra one in storage that’s never been used. I polarized the regulator and starter and it isn’t charging. I did the test on it and it charges when it’s jumped, but when I turn the ignition off the starter keeps running. It’s either caused from a faulty regulator, wrong connections, or both. I’ve seen similar posts in the past about the starter continuing to turn after the key is turned off but I can’t find them atm.