Sounds like you are getting well sorted out there.

For the fluid, any of the hyd fluids with the spec MS-1209 or MS-1210 will work. Ask the tractor store for compatible to CASE Hy-Tran or Hy-Tran plus. Check the label for "meets MS-1209/1210 specification" or similar and that will work.

If you jumpered across the heavy terminals of the solenoid, you did not test the coil pick, or the wire from the starter button. I hope that you have operational starter when the solenoid is replaced. My instructions would validate both the starter button, and the wire from batt + all the way to the solenoid.

The starter buttons on these old tractors commonly corrode and do not contact when pushed.

The 105 does not have a starter button, rather a 3 position key switch. Only the Original, 70, and 100 had a starter button from factory :bigthink:

The test is still valid from the + of the batt to the small terminal of the solenoid. Will test the primary wire, and the "start" position of the key switch to solenoid.

Edit to add; will also check the operation of the Neutral Safety Switch. If the solenoid picks and cranks the engine, there is a fault from the B+ of the keyswitch, to the wire for the Neutral safety, and the wire from that to the solenoid.

:beerchug:

I'll second the neutral safety. You can easily bypass the switch temporarily to test function of the solenoid, by taking a small piece of wire, stripping the ends, and sticking each end into the connector that connects to the switch. It is very common for the thin metal tab that pushes on the switch to snap off with age. Would recommend replacing it though, because safety is very important especially on these old machines with very few safety mechanisms.

Where is the neutral safety switch located? I tried looking around the brake pedal but i cant seem to find it :Huh: although i admit i didnt look very enthusiastically lol.

I will probably get some parts tomorrow so this weekend im going to have a go at it again and see if i can get it to start, and also try to fully dissasemble the engine for my 128.
I cant get the pulley off so i can put a puller on the flywheel, so i need to fabricate a puller for the pulley today. Lots of pulls there lol.:biggrin2:

There seems to be very little pictures of the neutral safety switch online, I have a couple 105 parts frames at home so I can get pictures of where the switch is located later.

If you follow the brake pedal down under the machine and find the shaft it attaches to (you'll need to remove the mower deck if you haven't already) somewhere towards the middle of it you should find one of these tabs, or the remains of one. If its not there at all then there should be a single roll pin there that holds it in place. This is the tab that I mentioned will break.
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i....jpg&usqp=CAU\

Once you find it, to the front of it (I think, it could be to the rear, its been a while since ive climbed under my 107 and looked at the setup) but you'll see the switch. It mounts to a sort of frame crossmember that the steering gearbox also mounts to. The switch looks sorta like this:
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...0.jpg&usqp=CAU


lastly, which pulley? Is it the drive cup/pulley that mounts to the flywheel side or the basket pulley that belt drives the starter/generator? You mention that it prevents you from removing the flywheel. The drive cup can get a bit stuck but I believe all you need is a sort of screwdriver to slowly pry it free.

As for the basket pulley on the other side, they do get difficult to pull off and there are a couple ways to remove them without damaging it. Jeff in PA (a sponsor on this site) sells a puller specifically designed to remove the basket pulley, or you can go a different route and drill a pair of holes close to the center of the pulley, so that you can use a standard puller on it. You never want to use a 3 jaw puller on it because the metal is thin and you will easily make the pulley unusable.

I suppose your PTO could also be what is stuck though :bigthink:

Not sure this will give you any better idea then just crawling under there
but here is a look at the switch attached. The tab is broken on this one as well
so it is not functional but is still in place. Might look a bit different as its
off a 125 but I think it's similar

KenAttachment 109495

Attachment 109496

Attachment 109497

Ken

Well thank you Ken for those photos :beerchug: saved me from having to get down on my back in the snow :biggrin2:

I went out and took a couple pictures on my parts frame 105 that show where it is without looking from underneath. Directly behind the engine, if you remove the plate that covers the tunnel underneath the dash tower you can see the back of the button, right next to the steering gearbox. Then, looking from the space where the lift lever is (with the lift in the max. raised position) you can see the front of the switch as well as the tab that actuates it, except in my case it is snapped off.

Attachment 109498Attachment 109499

Thank you for the pictures! Now i should be able to find it :biggrin2: I'm going to do some work to it tonight, i still haven't received neither the sediment bowl, solenoid or headlights. But I'm going to continue with the electronics and work some on the 128 engine.

This is the pulley that's stuck, I have made a pulley now so hopefully it will pop loose tonight.

:beerchug:

I got the pulley loose with my homemade pulley puller! It was pretty siezed on.

What thread size are there where you put the puller on the flywheel? I need to chase the threads there, and the imperial system is not my strong side lol :biggrin2: