Yes, clips. Then the axles will slide out.

Jesus parts to be aware of. Been a while, don't remember, but I thinks there may be little balls behind the springs.
If you are only replacing the axles, you wont be taking this apart

JESUS PARTS! I haven't heard that one in a while. :ROTF1::ROTF2:
Great pics and yes to the right side axle on the
1554 (will be dedicated leaf Vac),
One LTX1050 rod out the block, seat to the 2182,
good hydro, will swap out with the bad hydro on the
SLTX1050 (will be dedicated mower) Then rebuild bad hydro,
have a spare hydro that came with the 1554 PO has no idea on
it's condition, will be right axle donor trans. Ironman, Thanks
so much for the pics, and your many posts here. I'm sure
I'll have some more questions. Sorry Paulashley for the thread
hy-jack. :beerchug:

While reading the thread on the the Lt1045 won't move a bit, thought I would come back here, since I had already HY-Jacked this thread, no need to Jack another. :RedFace2:
So if one wanted to make a drain plug and fill plug hole,
I'm thinking my best bet would be to compare the Hydro
I have out of a LTX1554 that you can drain and fill if you
remove it from the tractor, with the one out of the SLTX1050
that has no entry and exit holes in it. I would also make a hole
in the fender pan with some sort of fill option, instead of taking
the Hydro out of the tractor to drain and fill. Of course while I'm inside
the slipping Hydro, replacing the bad parts, I would drill and tap at the point.
Just asking the very Knowledgeable few, that have had these apart.
As always Thanks so much. :beerchug:

Bryan, look under the tractor at the transaxle(s) in question and take a picture of the label on it. The LT, SLT, LTX and SLTX series will have a few different make/models of transaxles. Let's have that info on hand so we can provide better solutions.

Example: For some transaxles, the manufacturer has drawings showing exactly where you can drill drain holes.

FWIW just my thoughts (and I'm not sure which HG transaxle you would be working with):

Drain port - Since you would have it apart finding a sweet spot and drilling and tapping would be no problem. I just think that there are a lot of barriers that would block all the oil from draining completely. That is probably why the correct procedure is to remove the transaxle and drain it upside down through the fill port.

Fill port - There's already one there, but you would have to fabricate some kind of fill tube and dipstick to get the new oil to the correct level. Probably the trickiest part of the plan.

Oil filter - There's no way to change the oil filter without opening the case. So how many oil changes can you do without changing the filter before it becomes a moot point?

Has anyone researched this part# 1A646031700 ? From what I had found is a replacement diff gear that acts like a limited slip diff.

From what I found, it's used in some versions of k46 and is listed on a (13WIA4CN010) - Cub Cadet 46" XT2 Enduro Lawn Tractor, Fab Deck (2015)

All very good points, Thank you so much for your feedback.
I was just thinking that maybe something was better than nothing.
The biggest reason is my inability to get down on the floor/ground,
and crawl under things anymore.
Going to build a table for the lawn stuff.
Have most of the lumber, lags,
and my all terrain casters came on Friday.
Truck is a whole other issue. Thanks again, Bryan :beerchug:

I found little info on it, but did come across this
that might help you out. :beerchug:
https://www.mytractorforum.com/threa...2v42ls.139025/