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A pressure relief valve is a safety of sorts.
One should not "adjust" it more than the lowest pressure recommendations of various components. Most systems are designed to work about #1500. Sure, some component might have a max of more than that, but look at it as a chain, the weakest link rating need be noticed. Not to dissuade you in any way, but one needs to learn how to drive, before trying out top speed of a conveyance. Wanting to build a loader with plans, but no ability/tools or equipment, is not the way to approach a "project" Climbing a ladder requires each foot carefully placed on the rung, then another. Trying to help here, not make anyone look foolish or belittle. I'd rather help or be silent, than to trash someone's ideas:beerchug: We all started out ignorant, but we learned, doing just what you are doing, asking questions, and yes a little dreaming also. Bottom line, do you want to build a loader from scratch and learn by doing, or do you want a loader to use in the near future that is already professionally built, except for mounting?? That I believe is a what you have to answer to yourself. There is more to it, then just cutting metal and safely welding it together. Then you have to design a hyd system with components of like size and specifications so they all work in harmony, not fight each other. ok, I think I've given you some food for thought here, and my one typing finger is tired.:BlahBlah: |
I agree with the rungs. Right now I'm on the relief valve rung.
That link I posted, will something like this work for bucket control and also be my relief valve? https://northernhydraulics.net/catal...g3000-668.html ps as to fabrication and welding equipment, all set. :beerchug: |
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but If it were my build, I'd want a float position on the bucket down position. I don't see it listed in the specks. Your build, your choice. And that is a bigger valve than needed @ 15 GPM's #10 fittings are usually 1/2 hoses I'm assuming you are wanting to put this on a garden tractor not a ford jubilee or 800 Surpluscenter might be better prices and something smaller I haven't looked in a while https://www.surpluscenter.com/hydraulics/ |
thanks george that helps, will look for smaller valve which can accommodate smaller lines and has a float position for the bucket. didnt think of that.
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Ok I found this video explaining 3 different types of hyd control valves. I dont quite get the float center type with check valves. Need to understand how the bucket can be stopped in any position and hold it, yet also float when for example plowing my driveway, but i will study it more later.
Cool vid tho, so sharing! :beerchug: https://youtu.be/CQPwvWXbV3w . |
On a valve with a float spool:
In simple words, that spool has an up, hold, down, and upon farther movement, a detented position,(latch if one prefers) as it stays where it is put, it does not have a spring loaded return to hold. It allows both ends of the cylinder's oil, to return to tank, thus called "float" :beerchug: Edit: your linked video explains pilot operated check valves and a closed center system, you want an open center system. and while pilot operated check valves have their place, you do not need them in a simple loader operation. |
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twoton that is awesome. love the pump location!
but, u can get banned for linking to porn here :biggrin2: |
Ur all gonna think this is pretty nuts, but on the cub build which will have the loader, I plan to do the 1" reinforced spindle upgrade, and the smallest power steering box I can find at the junkyard. For hydraulics for that, I can use a ported differential (unless the main pump can feed it along with a loader).
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I ran my 2084 loader off the hydro pump for about a year.
ya it was kinda slow but I've since changed to a front 6gpm pump and for the cost it wasn't worth it. it worked fine off the hydro. IMO the real problem while running the loader off the hydro was that the power steering would cut out from time to time. I think this was because the rear end doesn't hold quite enough oil? |
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