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Nice job Tom. Now figure out a way to get some of the engine heat in there and make it comfy. By the way, when are we going to get some snow so we can get out there and use our snow moving machines?
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I've thought about blocking the hood up slightly to let some of the heat in. I'm thinking an inch over the firewall would make a difference.
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But you do have to have a tight exhaust system or it will contaminate the heated air input. |
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Thanks for posting:beerchug: |
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The flywheel fan produces a large flow of air over the heads as well as the hot muffler, so I just built a plenum to harvest it. The plenum just slips over the factory air box that normally exhausts through the grill, and is held on with 2 springs just like the grill normally does. The plenum has a hole for the exhaust pipe to protrude through. Plenum removes as easily as the grill does normally. The duct to the cab is 4" aluminum flex dryer vent. I thought I might need an additional duct into the cab on the other side, but one seems adequate so far. There is some heated air loss out the bottom of the factory air box where the V belt drives the thrower, and I'm sure I could slow that with some sheet metal, but at present I don't think I need it, and it leaves an exit for the heated air that does not go to the cab to adequately cool the engine. It ain't all factory or purdy, but it is a working tool, not a trailer queen. |
Very nice setup Tom... awesome fab work as usual!!:beerchug:
George I really like yours too!!:beerchug: Great thinking going into that heater! We don't get to play with cabs or snowblowers in South Ga.. doesn't get cold enough or snow!!:biggrin2::biggrin2: |
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Today I hope to finish this up. I got my filler panels fabbed up and painted yesterday and did some spray bomb touch up painting just to stop the surface rust. I found some rubber floor mat material from a tractor cab I refurbishes so that will go on the foot rest's and I am ordering some black vinyl covered foam to glue on all of the flat interior surfaces to help quiet it down. I polished up the tractor hood and sides and they do not look to bad so it should look pretty good from 20 ft. I might repaint it next year. Thanks Guys. |
Might as well bug hit!!!!!!!
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You know how it goes. I was sanding on the cab so I could touch up paint some surface rust and one thing lead to another and next thing you know I had the whole cab sanded down. I masked it off and broke out the spray gun and two coats of Iron Guard 935 white with hardener later here we are.
Attachment 97675 Attachment 97676 I then decided that since the cab turned out so well for a quickie I might as well paint the hood and side panels also. Attachment 97677 Attachment 97678 Since I cannot remove the grill without removing the snowblower mule drive I will just mask off the front of the tractor and paint it with the Rust-Oleum spray bomb. Hope the cab foam I ordered comes in soon so I can get this project that I han no plans of doing finished.:bash2: |
Looks great, you have to watch out for those "while I have this far". :biggrin2:
Very abbreviated "while I have it this far". ( from about 1979 ) My friend Tony GF wrinkled the front end of his red 66 Malibu. It was a stone stock, very anemic 283 4 speed car. Another friend blew up the engine in a green 67 Chevelle. Tony bought the 67 and the plan was to put the engine and trans from the red car into the green car. :biggrin2: The red engine's exhaust manifolds looked small so pulled the intake. They were small too. Might as well look at the heads. Smallest valves I've ever seen on a small block. long story short, he ended up with a high compression ( actual 12.5-1 comp) 350 small block putting out over 425 hp , cam was rated for 3800 -6800 rpm, 2.02 angle plug heads, ported ,polished, CC'd that would pass everything but a gas station. Had to run Sunoco 260 plus octane booster and got about 3 mpg. |
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