I don't have the electric lift or hydraulic lift on any of my narrow frame tractors (a 127 and previous series are a narrow frame as the subsequent series were wide frames to handle the new larger engine sizes) but I've been told the electric lifts aren't the best for things like pushing snow and running a tiller. They aren't as strong as a hydro lift and they work kind of slow. I would say if the current setup works, keep it, until maybe you could find a Cub Cadet hydraulic lift for it.

Oh, and thank you for the service you provided to this country!!

Well then, I'm hoping this aftermarket hydraulic lift works good.

So I have a list of things to check out including looking for leaks, listening to how the engine runs at idle and full throttle, checking the steering, making sure the PTO works and stays engaged, making sure the lift works. Anything else?

Oh, and you're welcome!

Odd. When I talked to the seller last night he said he had a a few acres and a long driveway and this 127 worked great for him. I asked why he was selling it and he said he bought a new Husqvarna riding mower and said he hated it because it wasn't built like a tank, like the 127. Makes me wonder, if he doesn't like his Husqvarna as much as he likes the 127 then why isn't he selling the Husqvarna? Could this be an indication that something might be wrong with the 127 and why he bought a new mower? Or am I just reading into it too much. I feel better buying new but for something like this I just can't afford the price of new. I don't mind getting my hands dirty and doing what I have to keep things working but buying a problem tractor to begin with is something I would prefer to avoid.

I'll post on here later tonight after I see the tractor.

Maybe he is getting older and has decided he only needs a mower only machine.
No longer does a garden or clearing the snow, etc.

I see yellow engine so it likely is the original versus a newer replacement.
Unless what we can see as yellow is only the shrouds and sheet metal on a black (replacement) engine.
It also looks like a black front axle. Which might indicate a new replacement due to center pivot pin wear or spindle pins wearing out the old axle.
Might want to jack up the front end and wiggle things to see if the slop is gone. Doing that will also let you inspect how much slop there is in the steering via turning the steering wheel.

What ever you decide we got your back as far as solutions/advice.
ain't nothing the fellows here have not fixed/improved.
They are good old solid tractors and worth keeping running and still will out last today's throwaway's.
And if you do buy, don't get that feeling in your stomach if/when something presents it's self you are not familiar with.
Every day something is on ebay as well as other suppliers for parts.
You might be surprised @ the accessories you think you don't need till you use them :beerchug:
I think the lift will shy some away, so you might get him to do a little wiggling on the price
good luck either way.

Actually, you could pick up an OEM hydraulic unit and sell off the Monarch.
Might even get more for the Monarch than what you could find a OEM hyd. unit for.

Looks like the Monarch is mounted on a 2x8 hunk of lumber.

It comes with a LOT of stuff--keep that in mind. From what I see here (OCC forum) the north east tends to have the nicest Cadets, more plentiful, easy to find attachments, etc. Keep that in mind when asking prices here. Here in the South, anything besides a mower deck is a tad unusual (at least my part of the world). We occasionaly find rear lifts, and garden implements, but you have to be willing to hunt for them, they are not common. My point in all this is to check (as it appears you have) what comparable equipment in your neck of the woods is selling for. Look for other Cadets as well as Deere's and Wheel Horse of that vintage and see what they are selling for. Now find a more modern but still heavy duty machine such as this and see what is it selling for. Is the price inflated because because the Cadet is a collectible antique?

Most anything you need for the mower is available either through Cadet or a host of other internet based suppliers. Glad someone knows what the hydraulic setup is. A purist will not like it, however, if it has been setup and installed properly and the guy has been running it for many years, then it must get the job done.
You mentioned weights---add fluid to the tires, bolt anything heavy (old barbell weights etc) to the rims---sounds like you want it to be a workhorse, not a trailer queen. Also consider do you weigh 125 or 350---that alone makes a huge difference.

Thanks guys, you all are awesome and knowing there is support out there if I need it makes it nice.

Is there a way to tell if the engine is an original or a replacement? I'm gathering that if the engine is yellow it most likely is the original. But can I check serial numbers or any other way? I'm not opposed to an original or a replacement, I'm only curious. Same with the axle. And I'll see if he'll let me jack it up to wiggle it.

I've been enjoying reading the message board and watching youtube videos but I really should be out in the shop finishing up a woodworking project. Maybe I'll just read a little more.....

I do not think there is a "matching numbers" thing between engine and chassis like muscle cars, etc.
But there are members here that can tell you if the engine serial number is from the era of your machine.

I also noticed he has a bolt in the mule drive up high towards the front. Some guys put that bolt in and some do not.
It is no big deal, but check and/or ask if the "quick attach" connect mechanism for the mule drive is functional or not working

What is the mule drive? I would like to see it in the picture before I go look at it in a few hours, that way I know what to point out and ask. What is the quick attach connect mechanism for the mule drive used for? Thanks again.