I have a 102 with a creeper gear. I have had both of your possible problems. The broken driveshaft pin in mine still had the ends out both sides so I just knew this was not the problem but it was. I did manage to pull one of the ends out by clamping a vise grip on it and tapping that with a really long punch. I have made punches from axles out of kids wheeled toys. I now have a whole tray full of punches and chisels. Once I got the one end out I could then align the pin piece in the shaft with the hole where I pulled the end out and managed to punch the whole thing out.

I have had several experiences with the yoke pin falling out. When I removed the little plug on the bottom of the creeper the pin was sitting on top of the plug. I did once replace this pin with the creeper in the tractor but had to issue hearing protection to all the neighborhood kids to protect their innocence. Plus it came out a couple months later. This time I removed the creeper. It is no easy task but by twisting and turning it I got it out and back in the tractor. As I recall when my pin dropped out the lever just flopped back and forth very freely. If yours feels like it is engaging then this may not be your problem.

Since you say you have a seal leaking I would suggest removing the creeper unit and fixing that too.

Seal is in the works if I ever get the pin out. I'll likely split the tractor and deal with the back end since I'm in this far.

I've been under this tractor many times but didn't see any plug on the bottom of the creeper. However being that there is oil and dirt that has come because of that seal on the creeper leaking it may be covered and overlooked. I'll have to take a look. I did see the side plug and it looks like that would be a bear to see into let alone work in.

If I haven't said this before it maybe of help. Right before this tractor stopped working I had trouble getting the creeper into gear. Clutch in it would grind. Not a clutch issue but the creeper. Once in hi or lo it would shift fine. So my thought are that the pin is sheared and or the this pin in the creeper has creeped out. Getting this out in the open is the challenge I face now. I have one other project I need to finish before I delve back into this project but thanks everyone for the ides and discussion.

you need to stop messing around and split the tractor, there's no way id run that tractor without removing the creeper and inspecting it.

Can't run it at all. It will not go in any direction right now. I'm sure your joking on the stop messing around bit as I am trying to get this done. I'm looking up the seal parts now and as well looking into anything else I need to have to get this job done. Since it's so hard to split the tractor I plan on doing this just the once. I have no other plans to do this again. If the creeper is toasted and needs parts that too is on the list. However before all this comes about I am going to need to get that pin out of where it is. ;)

i would leave the pin alone and do it the way i suggested in my earlier post. id pull the engine and disassemble the clutch, then you can unbolt the rearend and roll it out with the creeper and driveshaft still hooked to it. much easier to do it that way in my opinion and a lot less chance of smashing your fingers trying to get that pin out.

Ok managed to get a pin out I think will allow me to split the tractor. Now as I've read the foot rest bolts are a bear. I am sorry to say they will be coming off with a great care (grinder) and will need to be replaced. Any where to get them or some sort of replacement?

Is there any other areas that may give me issues when I get to tearing into splitting this? The roll pin I took out was hopefully the right one. It was the one on the back side of the clutch. Correct one? Wrong one? I had tried another at the connecting collar at the creeper that joined the shaft. But neither of those budged. So I decided to try the the other pin and it came out. I did have it out some years ago to fix the clutch so it wasn't in there to long to get rusted in.

I'm following the manual that I got with the 127 tractor. It covers about 6 tractors from the 73 through the 127. It also covers the even number like the 126 as well. I'm following the process for the 126 and so far the process is the same.

By the way found a longer punch set at Harbor freight. Made of carbon steel but none the less worked. Had to give 9.00 for them but served the purpose and allowed me to give that pin a real wack rather than the tapping I was doing with the Stanley. Not that I swear by them but they kept my fingers free of the hammer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-93111.html

The process is the same for all Narrow Frame gear drives.

124 footrest bolts difficult? I don't think I know anything about this.

One of the TWO pins in the COUPLING needs to come out, the idea is to take the drive shaft loose from the creeper. Since the #2 pin is out, do not take the #1 pin out until you put the #2 pin back in or you will have a mouse trap on your hands.

ONCE AGAIN, if you don't back up the shaft when you knock the coupler pin/s out you run a terrible risk of breaking your creeper gear.

Either knock one of the pins out of the coupler OR put the #2 back in and knock the #1 pin out and pull shaft and all out. Those really are the only choice you have.

Please understand that the guys here have done this numerous times and they do know what they're talking about.