You do not want to throw out a part, even if it seems rusty and "extra" or unnecessary--like the battery hold down. That battery hold down is actually not too common (as many found them unnecessary and put them on the shelf only to be lost or tossed, and it is worth $$. In its current condition, it would probably bring $15+ on FleaBay.

Cub Cadet 123

Just figured out that the spring that presses down on the safety switch (when the brake is applied) was missing... And because of this no power was getting to the starter/generator. So therefore I temporarily bypassed it and now I can start it off its own battery without jumping it. :biggrin2: AND to my surprise the amp meter showed that the battery was being charged - which was quite a bonus.

My question here is now that everything seems to be working electrically, is there anything I should check to make sure im not frying any thing? I noticed that the amp meter will sometimes "jump" around from "O" to the charge side and sometimes when idling it will move to the discharge side. Is this normal operation?

Also, what should the voltage and amperage be at the battery when at full throttle?


:Thanks:

Bump... :HeadScratch:

Don't rely on what the ammeter is saying. They get old and don't always read accurately.

At WOT, charge should be around 14-14.5 volts.

If your charge rate is in the correct range (not over 14.5V) and nothing is smoking, your not "frying" anything.

It is not uncommon at idle for some machines to go to discharge on the gauge.

Ok, I made some adjustments to the hydrostat linkage but it still seems to want to increase in speed after I try to set the drive lever where I want it. And its still kinda touchy... Any thoughts on this one?

:Thanks:

Worn trunion plate is the touchy control problem. You will have to remove the fenders for this repair.

Under the tunnel cover there is a adjustment to keep the lever where you put it.

Search trunion repair here and you will see it's a common problem

This is my stock answer for trunnion problems.

If you have or suspect that you have trunnion problems with your Cub Cadet hydro, start by going here.
http://cubfaq.com/hydrolurch.html

And then here.
http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html

More information here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4635

There is a lot of good debate here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=5495

After you have fixed your trunnion your forward-reverse lever and foot pedal may be out of wack, so go here.
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html

Personally, I see no need to add extra metal pieces to the square hole, unless the ends are worn crooked. I have never had this problem with any that I have fixed. So I simply weld the slots in the corners and then file them back square again.

I think someone said one of my links is dead, I don't know for sure, haven't checked them in awhile.

the picture of the black pieces are deck lift brackets for a john deere 300 series , I know because I redid a couple last year, throw them on ebay should get a couple dollars