You could use a bolt. But it is a crap shoot as to how long before it shears the bolt.
I think, the engine firing "pulses" are what lead the pin to hammer into the coupler and wear the renegade slot in the coupler. Then it shears off or is thrown out of shaft.

Then what ever bolt you put in gets hammered until it shears off too.

I think Jeff in PA does make a replacement pin that is a tad bigger to fit tight in the hole. But that worn coupler will still allow the pin to be constantly hammered.

A grade 8 bolt has lasted longer than the pin on my 129.

For what it's worth I've been able to put a new pin in and wrap it a dozen or so times with electrical tape to help hold it in... quick fix that will get ya by till you can do a proper repair....

A number of the guys have said that they put in new pin and put a hose clamp around it to hold it all together, with good results.

Never had to do that myself, but I've heard it from people here who I trust.

Get the correct parts when you can and fix it right. Why butcher something together when parts are available? Almost positive Jeff in PA makes what you need.....:beerchug:

Very true Yosemite Sam! I have one set up that way on one of my 129's and it has held for the last 4 years without any problems.


Great advice Todd. The pins are there for a reason--as weak points in the drive line that are intended to shear when the drive line is stressed so that pins could be replaced instead of more expensive parts. Putting a bolt in can be used in a pinch, but should not be used for a permanent fix.

Cub Cadet 123

the cheapo quik fix is to put a pin in and secure it with a grooved hose clamp to keep the pin from falling out. Then the cover can be put back on to cover up the ugliness. Yes the worn slot will keep growing tho.

mine was welded together by previous owners - crazy yes but it never came apart again.

This was my cure for that on my 149. I cut the worn out stuff off in my chop saw and used part of a 2000 series drive shaft. It still has the rag joint on the pump end. You can see in the first pic that the PO had done the bolt trick.

I have a ujoint setup I'm gonna try, I need a quiet line engine coupler first. Dave Kamp outlines the procedure, its way overkill, will outlast the machine. Had my machinist buddy cut a groove in the driveshaft for a key, got 2 yokes and a small ujoint.
Sam, the only 2000 series driveshafts I have found are pricey(2 bills) or I would have gone that route, I also thought about the wire and electricity fix. How much flex can there be with everything mounted solid?
This was all FUBAR when I got it, I had the coupler welded up, a new driveshaft and pin, after about 3 hrs run time it sheared the pin. Been rollin ever since with a bolt.

Guess you didn't try the sponsors or rweaver. Last complete use 2000 series shaft I bought was around $60.00

The 2-3000 series drive shaft stuff is not a big mover for the guys that recycle old tractors so they are normally a cheap item.