There really isn't a adjustment for the flapper...its eather there. Or it isnt. It is possible the roll pin that holds it in place isn't installed I've seen that on a couple

What does the flapper engage, btw? A plunger type rod to move a release valve internal to the hydro? Or something else? Does the flapper need force on it to keep whatever it engages "pushed and engaged"? Or can it just drop down and it stays there?

The flapper presses down on the two buttons on top of the relief valves which screw into the top of the hydro unit. You must keep pressure on the flapper spring (and, hence, the buttons) to roll the tractor. Or, replace the valve with the auto release type used on later series tractors.

Welcome to OCC.

I understand getting a "new to you" tractor and wanting everything to function as it should.

IIRC, if the flapper is not there the lever will not stay anywhere near the horizontal position, it will simply flop down.

Weather the flapper is there or not, if the check valves have not been used in a while they could very easily be stuck. If they are stuck, and you force them down, there is a very good chance that they will stay down. In order to make the tractor functional again the transmission and rear end MUST BE REMOVED and the valves will need to be taken out, cleaned and soaked in a penetrating oil (NOT IN BS WD-40) then worked back and forth to ensure that they are indeed free. Then the tractor will need to be reassembled.

If you are lucky, everything will be good, if not, the valves will start leaking and dripping hy-tran on your floor and cause a dirty oily build-up on the transmission that will not only make a mess but will eventually help to keep the transmission from cooling properly.

Rebuilt valves are available (someone correct my pricing if I'm wrong) for about $75.00 each.

Now you gotta take the trans and rear end back out again... and you're a little frantic about taking the fenders and pan off!?

You said "rebuilt and restored" everyones definition of that is different. It could be possible that the "nubs" on the valves were simply painted along with the rest of it when it was "restored" and the paint is keeping them from going down.

OR on a "restored" machine they may not be working for a reason. Might be best to let well enough alone.

IH Cub Cadets really are great machines, but sometimes you gotta pick your battles when it comes to fixing things that may or may not really need to be fixed. I guess in this case, it depends on how how anal you are about everything functioning as it should or how often you feel like you need to roll the machine around with the engine not running.

In any event, keep in mind that there are a lot of really helpful people here who are more than happy to help guide you through any trouble that you may encounter with your Cub. Not everyone here is a "downer" like me.

Good Luck!

Here is a link to some info that might be helpful.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3

I have found the hardest part of getting the fenders off is the bolts thru the footrests. PB Blaster and a impact wrench is a big help.

Thanks for all the posts - that picture as well as diagram is especially useful. I think before I turn any bolts I will instead buy a cheap endoscopic camera and see if I can discern what exactly is the problem. I am a bit anal, for sure - but recognize the need to sometimes let well enough alone. This camera should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=AQY8OJROX79GF

Ok, I was looking at things the wrong way. First, the flapper is there ad the release valves work well - I just had no idea what type of resistance to expect and the effort it would still take to push the tractor around - heavy beast. All is well though. The guy who rebuilt it actually added a nice feature, a metal tab that can hold the lever in place so a person doesn't have to do so when pushing the tractor. Sweet...now, about that steering - why does it turn so nice and sharp in one direction and not the other? It is almost like the rebuild guy chose to do it that way, splitting the entire turn radius skewed in one direction...but I'm not sure...

Most 123s have the part that holds down the lever.
Don't try to move it very fast while that lever is down, you can still damage the hydro if you pull it with a pickup or something. They need to be moved slow when moving it without the engine running

I believe they were originally set up to steer a little tighter to the Left, thus making it easier to mow closer to obstacles in the yard. You can adjust the drag link to suit your own needs.

I suppose that would make sense, then, on the turning radius. I appreciate all the help on my questions. If I could figure out how to merely upload some pics, I would - seems to need a third party service online to host the pictures? Anyways, thanks again. I am enjoying using a real piece of equipment again.