Can you post a pic of this part of the engine so we can see what you have?

Matt, hop this worked

Hmm...looks like you might be able to use #22 in this picture (719-3096) IF the CV joint driveshaft from the 1641 has the same bolt circle as the part in the second drawing I've attached:
http://cubcadetparts.arinet.com/Scri...&ilIF=P&ilRE=8

Use with 703-0204 (#39 below):
http://cubcadetparts.arinet.com/Scri...&ilIF=P&ilRE=8

This will only work if the CV driveshaft's bolt circle is the same as the adapter mentioned in the bottom drawing...Perhaps Scott can measure the CV joint bolt circle and the other part, since he has both?

Oh, and if you plan on doing any mowing, I'd pick up a flywheel screen for that thing, or you'll fill it with grass clippings and cook it.

I also saw that part# 22 and thought the same thing, I'm thinking that if that part will fit the flywheel and the drive shaft is 5/8 I could use the cv joint,shaft and #22,then do the u-joint mod I saw on cubfaq.com. The u-joint is real cheap compared to some of these parts from cub, part #42 I think was over 100 bucks ouch!

Yes the CV and the standard shaft adaptor is the same bolt circle.

If #42 is splined the answer is yes well over $100 from Cub. If not splined it's about $28 and the bushing is another $8 IIRC.

If you want the CV shaft at one end and the Ujoint at the other then contact Chris at cubclassics.com, he just got a 1882 in for parts and has the shaft.

Look for used parts, a standard complete rag shaft from cub will run you about $200 and a CV shaft....$$$$$$$$$$...don't know but maybe $300++.

Now all my shafts are double ragged at each end and the are $15 each so that right there is $60, last shaft I priced was $58, fan is $15, couplers another $20 each.....well it adds up. The only part I buy new are replacement bushings.

Somehow you need to get off that Vanguard flywheel and after that it's yours to deal with. So how you do it is up to you, all I was suggesting is to use your imagination.

Another thought is to get ahold of jimsrepair.com or something like that... just google 'tractor repower' and you'll find him. Jim sells repower kits and specializes in the Vanguard, he sells 'kits' but he should sell you just the drive hub for your VG, just make shure you tell him it's for a Kohler replacement so he gives you the right hub.

Just remember once you design your shaft and you start paying retail for parts it's gonna add up REAL quick like.

Scott

OH and on the CV you need at least 1/4" of free play end to end, The splined ends allow for this, there is a long splined end and a shorter one, use the long end and let it have it's slop.

#42 is not splined on a 680.

There's no need to buy all of this stuff new, or at least not the driveshaft itself. You can easily make one out of an $8 piece of cold-rolled. ...Dan, does the 680 have any of its driveshaft remaining? If not, you can probably figure about $100-$150 for the flex discs, spherical ball bushings, etc. It may seem like a lot, but you'll probably never have to do it again.

Just so you know, some of the hydro JDs had U-joint driveshafts, and I've heard they wore out frequently. The rag joint driveshaft will hold up just fine. The CV joint driveshaft parts will be very expensive should have to to buy anything new, as has been mentioned. If you go that route, I can almost guarantee there will be machining necessary to fit it, as this is not a factory motor/transmission combination.