If you found the jelly in the bowl, it's likely it's in the main jet too. Sounds like you had some E 10 fuel saturated with water. I don't think the Heet will remove it but you can try it. I would blow the carb out with air.

Did read it, did the adjustments. Tee bolt on both 1450s are bottomed out. Neutral on the hydro is fine, it's the shifter that I can't get into neutral. I appreciate the help. This afternoon, I drove #1, (may call me an idiot, but the coil was wired wrong). Ran fine until it stalled out, then wouldn't crank. I had power to the solenoid, but not out. The small wire had no power either. Could the solenoid being bad affect the ignition? Drove #2 for a while, choke on to run appears to be repaired by the carb cleaning. Hydro still nowhere near correct. Still speeding up, I think due to shifter movement. Pulled the hood adjustment plate off and inspected the shifter linkage. Just a rod with 2 spring pins off the shifter. I have a small amount of slop there. I tightened the shifter friction nut. Then I wiggled the cross rod from the shifter, lots of play there. Found the large bolt on the right side of the dash tower. It has a nut on the inside. The bolt is hollow, the cross shaft going into the bolt. I put the old small trunion spring in it to tighten up the shaft. Spring was too long. I found a small rubber washer that fit in the bolt and reinstalled it. No side play now. I put the shifter in forward and applied the brakes. Neutral position is fine. Shifter in reverse, apply the brakes, shifter stops short of neutral. I got to watching the plates on the hydro. I can pull up and back on the plate and reverse goes into neutral like it should. That tells me something is binding, but I have no idea what. Maybe when I filed out the trunion after it was welded, I did it wrong? Maybe trunion space for springs isn't long enough? Any one have measurements for the rectangle the pins and springs fit into?

Pulled the fender pan this morning, great having a shed! Like Roland said, pictures really help so here ya go! All hydro linkage appears tight, no binding that I can find. Note the space in the "bow tie" at the trunion, (4th picture). Also note the rectangle that the trunion pins and springs fit in. Another thing, the rod that goes from the shifter cross shaft to the hydro linkage. The top swivel joint is on the right and the bottom swivel joint is on the left. Looks to me like the top should be on the left also, but both my 1450s are set up like this. From what I see, the rod that goes from the shifter cross shaft to the hydro linkage needs to be adjusted to get the shifter into the proper neutral position, (gate?), but I can't figure out which end to adjust. When I loosen the lock nut and turn the rod, either forward or reverse will be in the proper neutral position and the other won't. If you remember, the bottom joint was on the right also, but I moved it to the left to match 1450 #1.

Before and after shift rod. 1st pic is 1450 #1, 2nd is 1450 #2. I changed #2 to match #1. Now I wonder which one is correct?

#2 Looks more correct-alignment is better which typically means less loss motion and binding.

Your bowtie is worn on one side.you need to fix that.

Are u sure the bowtie is worn or did I not file the rectangle of enough for the pins and springs?

http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html
I found the above article. It gives measurements.

look inside the gas tank for trash, I found a rubber o ring and a big one at that inside my gas tank from the previous owner, idk how it would have ever got in there and as I was mowing it got sucked over the hole for the fuel bowl and the tractor died, I was like :bigthink:. let it sit shook it around and fired up took out the o ring never had any problems. Same thing happen to my dads 1000. I was driving it and it died, was looking inside the tank at the right light with the sun and saw sand inside of it probably from gas over the years or sand falling off the bottom of gas cans, cleaned out the tank never had it die again, just saying its probably something stupid no need to sell them over it, I got a 1450 that runs sweet and no problems with her :beer2:

Gas tank is good, pulled it and cleaned it out. I have moved the shift rod on #2 so both ball joints are on the inside. I have a temp fix for the bowtie plate. If it works, I'll post pics. I think the dying problem with #1 may be the ignition switch. The switch had been sticking and I'd have to make it return to the on position. When it died the other day, I had no power to the solenoid, so I think it has an internal problem. Maybe when it was getting hot, I was losing contact, stopping power to the coil, resulting in the engine dying? More to come on that problem.