The smoking isn't all that bad, the last pic is with it running. Checked Parts Tree and it does have valve guide seals so I'm going to replace them. I need to adjust the valves anyway so while I'm in the neighborhood I may as well give it a shot. Lot's of little things that need some TLC like the rotted out battery support, wiring still needs to be tidied up and some split wrap. PTO needs some epoxy on the field coil. Then I may put a better grill on it, it has a couple cracks. All in all it runs pretty and good considering what I paid for it I'm happy. :beerchug:

Nice going buddy!

Great feeling to hear something run for the first time! :ThumbsUp:

Got a little more done on this poor old beast. Fenders, foot boards, seat and 3 point are done. Heim joints at the end of the lift arms for the 3 point need a little help from the fire wrench to get them loosened up, they were rusted solid. Only had to make a minor trim of the fenders and foot boards to clear the rear end brace figured I'd show just for the guys that seem to be concerned about a little trim work. you can see the before and after. Got the wiring wrapped in split loom. Now just some work under the hood and this one can head to my kids place in SC. Oh almost forgot the plow adapter from Xtreme. Nice work as always from Xtreme. :beerchug::beerchug:

Good work Sam, glad to hear that it runs.

Looks like a pretty nice tractor now, Sam!!

Could you have cut a 45° off the corner of the brace also? Or would it have been too close to the bolt hole? It is hard to tell from the angle of the pic.

Yep the plates that Xtreme are making have the corner trimmed. I had a set of the early stuff sitting on my shelf so it went on this tractor. Still need a little trim to clear the bolt even with the current plate. This is only on the Cyclops series, the older tractors have no clearance issues. Pic is the latest from Xtreme.

Your Super is looking good. I didn't see the sleeve hitch adaptor on Xtreme's website before. It looks great.

Today we addressed the "Why does my valve cover leak oil" as well as the worn out valve guide seals. No reason to replace the O-ring / valve cover gasket, we have silicone, 1st pic. Other 2 are removing the valve springs and replacing the seals. Procedure is pull the cover, remove the rocker shaft, pull one spark plug and screw in the hose to supply compressed air into the cylinder being worked on at the time, remove the keepers for the valve spring, pull the spring, remove the seal, clean, replace the seal, spring, keepers and repeat on the next cylinder. Install the rocker shaft, adjust valves (they were so far out of adjustment that I couldn't believe it). Reason for the compressed air is to hold the valves up when the keepers and springs are removed otherwise you run the risk of having a valve drop into a cylinder then it would be pull the head of time. Runs much better and the smoking is greatly reduced. Cocktail time now. :beerchug:

Looking good Sam. Good tip on the compressed air idea. :beerchug:
The valve "gasket" reminds me of my 782D. When running, it poured oil out of the valve cover. Pulled off the cover and the o-ring was nowhere to be found. Not even any silicone. Guess the PO figured if he/she tightened it enough, it wouldn't leak. :bash2: :biggrin2:

Sam, was the valve lash too tight or was it sloppy like a loose tooth?