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I need to get tubes in the rear tires first... that's something else I need to do. By the way, the one thing I did notice is that these little tractors don't have a very sharp turning radius.
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No, the NF tractors don't have a very tight turning radius. |
I did end up reading it all. I made the best adjustments I could after the initial settings, but I still think I could improve it some. I have a steep hill on my driveway and it seemed to bog down just a touch when I was driving it uphill. I remember the manual mentioning this but can't remember the adjustment. I'll look tonight and try to fine tune it. All in all, I am pretty pleased.:beerchug:
Cub Cadet put a lot of work into their manuals. I've got a Ford YT16 and the manual for it is basically useless, with the exception of a few spec callouts |
Why tubes? I dont use a tube unless Im trying to save an old crappy tire, tubeless are alot easier to fill with fasher fluid.
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I prefer tubes with fluid filled tires. But I also prefer CaCl2. Whatever fluid you use, I agree, tubes are better, but not required.
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Washer fluid wont rust the wheels, neither will rv anti freeze, you can also buy fluid from tire shops but its alot more pricey. Years ago farmers would use calcium, which is basically salt water, but that does rust out the wheels.
Filling tubes is a pita and then if you do have a flat you have no choice but to drain the fluid, pull the tube out of the tire and patch the tube, if its tubeless you can use a plug and be back to work in 5 minutes, Yes even with filled tires plugs do work. Each to their own. Do you get snow? If not then you can use ag tires but those need chains in the winter, atv tires work well without chains. |
Really looks good!
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As always, thanks for the input. |
Ooooh... what kind of Ford you got??
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