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  #21  
Old 04-07-2011, 08:25 PM
truckntran truckntran is offline
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I bet your carb screws that broke were staked in place and as you tried to remove them the staking jammed in the threads.. Remember to stake the new ones or lock them somehow so you don't end up running a screw into your new engine...

I like the project, wide frame but no ISO mounts to mess with. Were the engine holes cracked out on the frame at all with that big motor?
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Quietlines and narrow frames, mostly projects but I mow with a 1200 and have a 122 set up for pulls. Wandering the country bringing towers to wind farms everywhere, and bringing yellow stuff home to Texas. Also into flatfender jeeps.
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  #22  
Old 04-07-2011, 08:36 PM
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westofb westofb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckntran View Post
I bet your carb screws that broke were staked in place and as you tried to remove them the staking jammed in the threads.. Remember to stake the new ones or lock them somehow so you don't end up running a screw into your new engine...

I like the project, wide frame but no ISO mounts to mess with. Were the engine holes cracked out on the frame at all with that big motor?
I have two of the frames and have not noticed cracks in either of them (but I have not cleaned them up good for paint, may find some then). I did find 6 out of 8 mounting bolts had worked loose on the 2 tractors when I pulled the engines. The one from the tractor is getting scraped, it had major wear in the QA forks, got a replacement frame from a 129 to use on this project.

I have new butterfly screws coming from Chris Westfall, they look to have some type of thread lock on them. Just in case, I have a new tube of blue thread lock on standby...LOL!
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IH Red 782 with weights and sleeve hitch!
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  #23  
Old 04-08-2011, 02:01 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Jeff, thanks for the update! Bummer on the bore and crank but sounds like your machine shop knows what they are doing and are taking good care of you. Your going to love how your motor is going to run once you get it back.
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  #24  
Old 04-08-2011, 08:38 PM
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westofb westofb is offline
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Just looking over some other posts regarding engine rebuilds and was looking for some input on what I should or should not purchase. I have faith in my machinist's opinions on what to buy or not to buy, but just thought I would toss this out there for opinions of non-virgin kohler overhaulers.

If you have been lookiing at my thread, you know that I am basically using 2 motors (K321 & K301) to put my 321 back together. Where it stands now I intend to sleeve the 321 back to stock bore, use the best of the valve train parts from both engines, use the steel governor gear, crank, and iron oil pan from the 301, have the valve seats ground, replace valve guides if they are out of spec, true the head and engine deck if needed, and order a new piston/ ring set, gasket set, connecting rod, and tune up parts (points, condensor, plug, and plug wire).

Anything I am missing or overlooking? The machinists doesn't care where I purchase my parts, infact he said he would check prices for the parts I need with his suppliers and sell them at his cost and that way I could get cost comparisons between his quote and what I can find myself. Thanks for the input guys, hopefully get some pics of some disassembly this weekend if work and the WIFE allow!
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  #25  
Old 04-08-2011, 09:33 PM
Battlewagon Battlewagon is offline
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Have your machinist weigh the piston and rod from Both engines before you use the K301 crank in the K321. There are some 12 horse cranks that will work and some that will not without proper balancing. Only way to find out if yours will work as is, is to compare the rod/piston weight. If they are within 10-15 grams or so then you should be fine. Anything else then you will need to add or remove weight. Best left to someone who balances rotating asseblies for a living. Ask your machinist.
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  #26  
Old 04-12-2011, 01:50 AM
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westofb westofb is offline
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Went to the machine shop today to check in with there progress. The cranks are slightly different, the 301 has an extra hole drilled in the weight closest to the cam gear, otherwise they are exactly the same. I asked him about weighing the piston and rods from both engines, and we did, the 301 rod and piston were 125 grams lighter! Then we noticed the rod from the 301 was much slimmer than the one from the 321. He got out his kohler book and the book shows that both engines used the same rod, we looked at both rods again and compared them to a new kohler .010 under rod he had on hand. Both of the used rods are apparently after market, neither had kohler markings on them and both engines had been rebuilt at some point in there lives.

I am going to try to go ahead and use the 301 crank, the machinist said he would fill the extra hole in the wieght on the crank so that it would look exactly like the one out of the 321 (I think he said it would be filled by welding it full and machining if off, anyhow, it would not be visible and would add weight back to the crank). May or may not work, I already have this crank and if it doesn't, I just have to take it apart again and find a useable 321 crank...I priced them new (just over $400.00!), trying not to go down that road.

The rest of the engine has been hot tanked and bead blasted, and he is waiting for me to get my rebuild parts in and for the cylinder sleeve to arrive. The only other issue that he could find was that I needed a new exhaust valve, one was bent (301) and the other was pitted so bad that it was unuseable. The seats were good as were the valve guides. I got my parts order today, I went with a stens rotary rebuild kit (gaskets, piston, rings, and rod), the machine shop had the kohler exhaust valve I need on hand and will be using it in the engine.

I have been trying to get the engine work, rebuild, sorted out so have done little else to the tractor itself. I did get a wild hair today and decided to get the steering wheel off. I see some folks on here recommend buying a steering wheel puller, I decided to see if I could make one myself. I looked around my shop and found a piece of 2x4 about 8" long. I took that and got out a hole saw for installing door handles in doors (I think it cuts a 2 1/8" hole) and drilled a hole in roughly the center wide side of the 2x4. Then I took a 3/8" bit and drilled 2 holes throught the narrow sides of the 2x4 about 1 1/2" to each side of the first hole. I then drilled 2 more 3/8" holes through the wide portion of the 2x4 between the 1st (big) and 2nd set of holes, these holes were staggered off center of the large hole, one above and one below, but they roughly were in a straight line with the center hole. Then, I took my miter saw and cut the 2x4 in half long ways, cutting the large hole down the middle. I then used some bolts I had laying around, bolted the 2 halves of the 2x4 around the base of the steering wheel, and attached it to my harmonic balancer puller with 2 more bolts. It made some cracking and popping noises as I applied pressure to the steering wheel, but popped it off without a bit of trouble. I think the version they sale is about $60.00, if I had to buy the parts for my homemade version I would guess you would have about $2.00 invested! Mine is not pretty, but it did the job, and I have $58.00 (well really $60.00) left in the wallet for other stuff I need to get the tractor up and going! Here a couple pics on my homemade steering wheel puller, feel free to make you own, I don't intend to patent it!

003.jpg 004.jpg005.jpg

If you look at the pics, you can see that I have already removed the hydro handle, and you can see my "rare" and fully operational cigar lighter, I still would let that go for an even swap on a tiller! LOL!

Okay, once the wheel was off, I found these little do-hickeys setting on the shaft between the wheel and the plastic bushing that goes into the end of the steering column. Here are the pics of them:

006.jpg008.jpg

Anyone have any idea what these are supposed to do? They kind of look like the remains of a bearing, I could not see they were doing anything, just occupying space. Note: my cheap puller had no ill effects on the steering shaft!
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IH Red 782 with weights and sleeve hitch!
IH snow blade, Brinly plow, Brinly disk, Brinly harrow, Johnson rear blade, and a #2 IH Cart
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  #27  
Old 04-12-2011, 06:28 PM
Battlewagon Battlewagon is offline
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Here are the pics we talked about. New style rod/piston vs old style. Please pardon the high tech Sharpie lableing. In the first pic the small bump behind the old style piston is a bolt head to keep it from rolling.







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  #28  
Old 04-12-2011, 08:18 PM
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westofb westofb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Battlewagon View Post
Here are the pics we talked about. New style rod/piston vs old style. Please pardon the high tech Sharpie lableing. In the first pic the small bump behind the old style piston is a bolt head to keep it from rolling.







Thanks for the pics, both engines have the old style pistons, the 321 had the old style rod and the 301 had the new one.
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IH Red 782 with weights and sleeve hitch!
IH snow blade, Brinly plow, Brinly disk, Brinly harrow, Johnson rear blade, and a #2 IH Cart
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  #29  
Old 04-12-2011, 09:22 PM
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westofb westofb is offline
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Got the tins back from the machine shop, they hot tanked them and bead blasted them....I was so excited to shoot some etching primer on them I forgot to get a before (primer) pic of them...LOL.

I also started to reassemble the carb, float is on back order so I couldn't do much. I bought new screws for the choke and throttle butterflies from Chris Westfall, I am not very happy with the quality, everyone of them twisted off trying to install them in the carb, they came with thread lock on them and pretty sure that what caused them to fail. I had one heck of time getting them (four) back out after twisting them off. No, I did not overtighten them, when they twisted off, they were no where close to snugging up against the butterflies. I was too pi**ed to get pics after the screw problems, I used the 2 originals to at least get the throttle butterfly in. And instead of lock tight, I supported the head of the screw with a punch, then hammered the thread end with another punch to stake them in place.

Does anyone know the size for sure of the carb butterfly screws? Mattg's how 2 list them as #3-46 (I think) he thought, would like to know for sure, I will order some steel ones from mcmaster carr. The ones that twisted off cost me $1.75 each! Here are a couple pics
001.jpg002.jpg
003.jpg004.jpg

and some of the carb kit/ throttle bushing install...well up to the point where I lost it...installing the butterflies!!!!!
055.jpg056.jpg
057.jpg059.jpg
060.jpg
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IH Red 782 with weights and sleeve hitch!
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  #30  
Old 04-12-2011, 09:47 PM
FFGino FFGino is offline
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Default 149 resto-mod

I Have several kohler engine in my barn and most are from Cub Cadets. I noticed that the k301, k321 and k341 engines all have the same stroke. In checking further, I discovered that from the factory, (mostly unmolested engines), that it was the same connecting rods used in all three engines...EXCEPT for the fact that the k341 piston had beefier wristpin bosses and thus required a narrower wristpin end on their rods. All the other measurements were exactly the same without respect to the weight of the rods. That being said, the rod on the left that you have marked "new style" is more than likely a k341 rod and the rod on the right marked "old style" is either a k301 or k321 rod. Just a little of my checking with mics and calipers and such.

Anyways, good luck with your redo and try not to wet yourself when it fires up for the first time. And try to start the engine EARLY in the day so that your smile has time to wear off before trying to go to sleep. Best of luck!!

FFGino. Happy cubbing!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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