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  #11  
Old 04-15-2013, 06:45 AM
Grampie Grampie is offline
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How's that old saying go, If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It?
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Keep dragg'n em in. They're like orphans...they all need a place to call home.
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  #12  
Old 04-15-2013, 07:58 AM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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What I've been doing to running engines is change oil, a head gasket replacement (and clean the combustion chamber/flatten the head if needed), new points, rebuild the PTO clutch, new clutch bearing, new condenser, plug, static time the engine, clean and repaint the engine and tins, clean breather assy, rebuild carb and re-assemble with new gaskets. I figure that's good for another 10 years of work.

That may be more than you need to do, but it's about everything that can be done short of pulling the flywheel, oil pan and engine internals. I don't replace oil seals unless they are are leaking. That would be one more task that you might consider, but you'll need to pull the starter pulley/clutch basket and the flywheel to do those.
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  #13  
Old 04-15-2013, 08:13 AM
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greener14519 greener14519 is offline
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Thanks fellas! Sawdust, thanks for a comprehensive list of recommendations. I'll probably do about that. Sounds like you guys don't recommend a lower overhaul if it is running well. Appreciate the input!
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  #14  
Old 04-15-2013, 09:33 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Originally Posted by greener14519 View Post
Here the stripped frame and two piles of parts heading to the sandblaster tomorrow. I'm hoping that this will be a super-quick cleanup and reassembly. None of the major components seem to need any work. The steering is adjusted well with almost zero free play, however, it doesn't look like the PO realized there was a zerk on it. Doesn't seem to have been greased recently. I'm debating about opening it up. I'll probably go ahead and see what the guts look like.
Open it up and regrind the cam follower and repack it with grease you'll be happy you did it at this stage.

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Originally Posted by greener14519 View Post
Thanks fellas! Sawdust, thanks for a comprehensive list of recommendations. I'll probably do about that. Sounds like you guys don't recommend a lower overhaul if it is running well. Appreciate the input!
If it's running as good as you say it is don't mess with it. With your turn around time I wouldn't do it. You could always have it done in the fall before the snow flies and get the shop on the off peak season have it done faster and cheaper.
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  #15  
Old 04-15-2013, 11:05 AM
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TheSaturnV TheSaturnV is offline
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You might consider removing the balance gears, some consider those to be a ticking time-bomb in the Kohler 14.

NICE 147 btw, and great progress.
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  #16  
Old 04-15-2013, 05:28 PM
CubyFan CubyFan is offline
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I can't help but notice what good condition the hub caps and the electric lift are in. It is very rare to find a 147 in this condition. There is a big push in the classic car market right now for cars in original good condition. It is only original once. I vote clean it wax it and use it with care.

You may already know it but the hub caps and electric lift may be worth more than you paid for the whole tractor!
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  #17  
Old 04-15-2013, 08:15 PM
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drglinski drglinski is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greener14519 View Post
This is my first Kohler engine. I've had good luck with Briggs and Tecumseh, but never owned a Kohler.
IMO Kohler>Briggs&Tecumseh. They last longer and are built better.


PS what were the flanges on the rear of the frame? Never seen those before.
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #18  
Old 04-15-2013, 08:22 PM
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Donovan M. Donovan M. is offline
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where are you located, im in canandagiua.
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Donovan:
62' Original-fenders
63' 100R-K-321a,lights,creeper,electric lift
149-original paint, tiller, three point, duals, ags
1811Custom -M18-18hp kohler magnum, power steering and hydraulic lift with Three point and sleeve hitch.
----------------------------------------------------
Attachments:three-QA 42inch,42inch blade,one-38inch cast end, QA 44inch deck
Brinly 12inch plow, 2x cultivators and x2disc Brinly Tool bar cub10:
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  #19  
Old 04-15-2013, 11:13 PM
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greener14519 greener14519 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Methos View Post
Open it up and regrind the cam follower and repack it with grease you'll be happy you did it at this stage.



If it's running as good as you say it is don't mess with it. With your turn around time I wouldn't do it. You could always have it done in the fall before the snow flies and get the shop on the off peak season have it done faster and cheaper.
Thanks Methos. I've decided to take your advice on both points. I'll open the steering box and check out that follower. I'm also going to leave the engine alone for now. I will clean the carb and replace the gaskets and let it be. As you say, I can always do that in the future if it needs it.
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2013, 11:15 PM
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greener14519 greener14519 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaturnV View Post
You might consider removing the balance gears, some consider those to be a ticking time-bomb in the Kohler 14.

NICE 147 btw, and great progress.
Saturn V - would you be willing to elaborate? I need to learn more......
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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