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#21
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I may have one I will look tomorow
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#22
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Got a few hours in on the 1650 today. First I used the oven cleaner on the top of the piston, the valves, and the head:
. . . Cleaning the top if the valves was a lot easier than getting to the underside of them. I soaked a cloth with oven cleaner, wrapped it around the underside, and let it sit for a while, then buffed the underside with the rag. . . Seats are looking much better: . . Here's the topside as I stand. I think that's going to be good enough: . . Although the underside of the exhaust valve isn't going to come as clean as the intake valve. I'm wondering if I should just pull them and give them a more thorough cleaning (?) . . . I felt in the mood to do a little painting, so I figured the engine tins were a good candidate. Scrubbed them all down in the laundry sink, sanded them with a couple high-grit sandpapers, and shot them with Rustoleum gloss black engine paint; . . Also, getting ready to put the motor back together in the next few days (when the head gasket comes in) so I thought I'd get it ready to start up. The choke assembly was really sticky, so I removed it, pulled the wire out of the sleeve, and rubbed the choke shaft and wire with steel wool. Then I greased up the wire and shaft and put it back in place. Moves nicely now. |
#23
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Adjusting the valves. I thought I'd post a few pics for my fellow noobs on this, since the pictures in the Technical Service Manual you get from Kohler are horrible.
Here's a picture inside the valve cover. I drew a red line across the gaps, where you'll measure your valve clearances. . . Insert the feeler gauge into that gap (look up the specs for your engine in the Kohler service manual.) . . You'll put a 1/2" wrench on the lower unit (it spins freely) and a 7/16" on the nut. Turn the nut to close or open the gap. For my K341, the intake valve clearance is spec'd at .008" / .010", so I got to the point where the .010 went in just a tad snug, and the .008 passed through easy. I figure I was hitting just about .009 this way. As a learning curve item, I checked my clearances before I cleaned the underside of the valves and the seats. The intake was easily over .020" (target .009") and the exhaust was over .030" (target .018".) It's not time to make adjustments until you complete that cleaning. The carbon on the underside of the valve and in the seat is what's giving you this higher clearance. Clean it first, then gauge and adjust. I think I was getting close to .010" of clearance just from the carbon buildup. |
#24
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Use care when using the oven cleaner....it likes to eat paint just as much as it does carbon deposits! It did a great job cleaning your top end and valves!
__________________
Jeff Brookfield, MO ________________ IH Red 782 with weights and sleeve hitch! IH snow blade, Brinly plow, Brinly disk, Brinly harrow, Johnson rear blade, and a #2 IH Cart |
#25
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It also likes to eat skin. I was wearing shorts and sprayed the head down while holding it over my legs. A few minutes later, my legs started with a mild burning itch.
Then I read the can. Ha. Had to go in and wash it off with some soap. |
#26
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While I was cleaning up that choke cable, I checked out the other controls. Basically, the choke and the throttle are the only things working.
The forward/reverse control is stuck at neutral. It doesn't budge. I've got to look into what's going on there. Any thoughts? (edit 7/18/11 - you'll see later that the trunnion plates at the back end were frozen solid - apparently a pretty common problem) The lever for the hydraulic lift moves back and forth freely, but does not move the piston on the hydraulics. I think I see a collar with a hex head screw on it in there that may need to be tightened. (edit 7/18/11 - it turns out it did actually engage the lift, but there was about three inches of lever play from top to bottom before it engaged. I'll have to figure out if this is normal, or how to correct it) The toggle switch for the front PTO is frozen in place. Have to take that apart and see what's up. I think I may replace it with a nice rocker switch anyway. Hope that whole electric PTO thing works... |
#27
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Great write up on the valves and the pics are awesome!
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#28
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what part of MI do you live in ?
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#29
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If you are in there that far I would get some valve grinding compound and grind both valves so you for sure don't have to get in there again. You will also have to re-adjust the valves again after that.
That spot on the piston isn't good, but as long as it doesn't go all the way down to the ring I wouldn't worry too much at the moment. I would put some oil between the piston and bore to make sure any oven cleaner that got down there doesn't cause any problems. I would also recommend cleaning the cooling fins on the cylinder after you get the engine bolted back together; I see a bunch of crap in the fins in the pics of your valve adjustments. If you haven't already, I'd remove the flywheel shroud and clean the fins on that side, and remove any grass/mouse debris that might be in there. The PTO switch has a safety interlock so you can't turn the tractor on if the PTO is on. If you don't want to lose that functionality you'll need the correct replacement switch, which is only about $30 IIRC. The F/R control is probably just rusted stuck from sitting. There's a big nut on one side of the dash tower that is on the F/R shaft. Loosen that all the way; it should either come loose by doing that, or come loose easier. I would also recommend making a brace for the muffler, as it'll crack/break the aluminum muffler box if it hasn't already. |
#30
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I'm in Grand Rapids. Most of my family is in Lansing, so I get over there quite often.
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