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  #51  
Old 10-29-2017, 05:02 PM
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DieselDoctor DieselDoctor is offline
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Just reading thru this post I had a thought, is this engine a full flow lube system, ie: does all of the oil pass thru the oil filter or just a partial amount? If it's full flow, it's possible that the lines to the remote oil filter may be restricted or kinked. Often as the hydraulic type hose deteriorates, the liner of the hose can break away and clog a fitting or the hose itself. Might be worth checking to see that oil flows out to the filter and all the way back to the hose connection at the block.
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  #52  
Old 10-29-2017, 05:44 PM
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The suction line is below the oil level, so even if the screen is missing, it will still suck oil from the sump.
That said, they eliminated the screen and it is NLA but a plastic replacement with screen is instead replacing it.
I'll post a ## later if I can find it.
I agree with diesel Dr, try removing both oil lines where they connect @ the engine and see you get oil flow while cranking.
Obviously you are getting enough to keep the engine from seizing up.
but those motors will pump over #50 cool.
I was going to suggest that you carefully blow the line back to the screen with an air hose while you had the pump dissembled but you didn't post back results on the shaft turning while under resistance.
I'm assuming you have put the closure cover back on, to be able to fill it with oil.
EDIT:
82-755- 29S you can see a pix of it on ebay, item number 291928281909 this is the screen replacement, it is a 2 piece unit that snaps together.
Even if the screen or the connecting pipe is fallen off/missing it will get oil UNLESS there is a plug in the line or screen in the sump.
If you get no joy with the lines disconnected @ the engine, try blowing the line back to the sump.
Sorry you will have to take the closure cover & pump cover back off.
While in ebay, look here @ this engine block and you will see the screen pick up and connecting tube. in good photos.
Item # 371804474778
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  #53  
Old 10-29-2017, 10:01 PM
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George,
I posted earlier today that I grabbed the shaft while cranking and it does spin.

From the ebay picks of the motor it looks like the screen is centered but the drain plug is closer to the alternater so I won't see the screen through the drain plug hole.

I'll remove the oil lines and check them. I slapped the engine cover back on with no gasket so I can remove it again and try blowing the passages. I'll remove both rotors and put the pump plate back on, then blow compressed air and or solvent into the oil switch fitting. I will see the pressure since i now have the gauge. If something pops out i will see the pressure drop.

Jon, I think bore scopes can be had for less than $20 if I need one.
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  #54  
Old 10-30-2017, 07:30 AM
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Sharp eye, I saw that drain plug also.
Sometimes @ my advanced age, the ol' memory plays tricks on me.
But I think I have a block that had/has a drain under the screen.
But we both see the level of the screen in relation to the oil level.

I have seen that suction passage between the block halves, between the screen pickup tube, and the pump, be clogged by a well meaning individual, that used too much sealer between the 2 block halves, but not usually a factory mistake.
But we don't know what the previous owner did or had done to the engine, if anything.
I don't want to recommend a disassembly of the engine and find out it was unnecessary.
Silly question, you did put the ball in the hole first followed by the spring?
and you probed the ball seat, to see that it was clear of anything keeping the ball from seating?

IIRR,
I think you can get directly to the suction passage to blow air, after removing both pump rotors.
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Old 10-30-2017, 08:15 AM
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I did put the ball in first. I'll take another look to make sure there's no crud in the ball seat.

When I pulled the rotors I saw the passages are milled out slots so it would be hard to get a tight seal with the air nozzle. That's why I thought I should blow into the switch fitting with the rotors removed. That should be a straight shot to the pickup screen.

What about pouring 3 pints of solvent in the crank and blowing the passage out? I have a gallon of old gas I could use but playing with gas makes me nervous. I could use kerosene, mineral spirits, paint thinner, etc. I could let it sit in there for a few days but I don't want to ruin any seals.
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  #56  
Old 10-31-2017, 03:05 PM
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Kerosene is fine for a flush,easy to get and useful after.
I would just blow with the air nozzle in the milled pump pocket/kidney but nothing wrong with the cover replaced and rotors removed like you mentioned.
you will prolly have to plug the relief ball hole or the air will blow out if you blow down the pressure switch fitting, or put the ball/spring and
cover on.
after you blow the suction line, I'd flush the crankcase with kero and see if you blew anything out the suction line or of off the screen.
Actually,
anything in the short copper line or passage will be blown into the rectangular screen box while back blowing.
Did you try spinning it over with filter lines removed @ the junction block on the engine, to see if it would pump oil?
( with sump filled of course)
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  #57  
Old 11-01-2017, 08:45 PM
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George and the rest of you guys,

Thanks for not giving up on me with my low oil pressure issue. I screwed around tonight for a few hours trying to flush out the pick-up screen with kerosene and made a big stinky mess. Then I recall that George reminded me to check the remote filter lines like I said I would. One of the lines was blocked. I'll add that I had removed an extra set of hose clamps from the oil lines because they were hitting the sheet metal. This is what a carelessly installed hose clamp will do. (by the PO)

I haven't put it all back together yet but this weekend I have high hopes that it will be fixed.
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  #58  
Old 11-01-2017, 08:53 PM
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Hope that is the fix and nothing is hurt.
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  #59  
Old 11-01-2017, 09:06 PM
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So glad you found the problem, it would of been a exercise in futility had you gone inside the engine.
One of the other members initially suggested line removal, IIRR.
I'm thinking that you were getting enough flow to keep it from total starvation, or it would of locked up.
Enjoy that smooth opposed twin, it is my favorite engine.
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Old 11-01-2017, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vrobert View Post
Then I recall that George reminded me to check the remote filter lines like I said I would. One of the lines was blocked.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
One of the other members initially suggested line removal, IIRR.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDoctor View Post
Just reading thru this post I had a thought, is this engine a full flow lube system, ie: does all of the oil pass thru the oil filter or just a partial amount? If it's full flow, it's possible that the lines to the remote oil filter may be restricted or kinked.


Who'd have thought...... Oh well. Fixed now. Glad you found it. Now, next time you will know to check the simple stuff first.
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