1A Turns freely but looks rough

[fleetlines]

Originally Posted by Sugarmaker

The grease on the inside of the case on mine was all but gone and so thick that it was not going to provide any lube.
I like the idea on the grease on the bit. I should have drilled a fluid port when I had the case apart!
Regards,
Chris

That is my concern. It turns nicely by hand but no telling what that grease inside is like. I've not dealt with anything this age where I know the grease is so old. If I can get those tine sleeves off I might should open her up. Something about doing it right the first time - even if I don't know what I'm doing.

[fleetlines]

Originally Posted by ajgross

Curtis I wish you good luck on your tiller. I am sad to say that I think I'm just about out of tiller parts now. SOMEONE bought me out of them........

AJ

AJ,
I have this other one but the pulley don't drive the tines. I didn't get to inspect it to much but I think the lower bearings are shot to. I didn't even set it up to get a better idea yet. I'm considering cannibalizing it to make the other extension. I'm wondering if I stick a bearing on the end cap if I could power two more sets of tines with my 1650. Just thinking. Likely wouldn't do it anyway as I just want it in decent working condition. - But then again, it would be easy to...
Curtis

[Sugarmaker]

Curtis,
The de-rusting works well in winter too. Just so its not zero. Get it set up!
What is the sleeve yout having problems with on the lower arms this should be just a 1/2 inch bolt throuth there!??
I had to cut off several of the bolts /nuts that were rusated on tight. You will have to replace most of the hardware anyways and its all available.

FYI getting the tines off the shafts required heat and a large 3 jaw puller. to go inside the tube an press on the end of the shaft. ( Harbor freight has them if you dont)

The real problem is that the inner race of the large bearings were both froze on the 1.25 dia shaft. I could have gotten them off but chose to use the new (good used) one from AJ Gross. I had to cut the outer race in half take out the balls to get the case apart. YUK! Had to be done!
Regard,
Chris

[fleetlines]

Originally Posted by Sugarmaker

What is the sleeve yout having problems with on the lower arms this should be just a 1/2 inch bolt throuth there!??

Chris,
That 1/2" bolt goes through a sleeve that acts as a spacer to keep the two sides from clamping to the case. I've already ruined the bolt beating on it with a couple C-clamps over the arms to keep them from asorbing the blows. If I just cut off the ends I will still need to spread the arms some to get them off. That shouldn't be bad but then I will need to replace that spacer. I'm concerned about not being able to find a spacer of the right diameter so I would like to keep that spacer.

I'm still debating on opening it up. I was just wanting it to work well and stop the decay. It is in a lot better shape than what you started with but that isn't saying the inside is alright. I'm truely concerned that if I end up with it looking like yours that I wouldn't want to use it.

I understand your description for getting the tine shafts off. I hadn't figured how I was going to do it so your description was most helpful. It don't sound difficult when you say it.

I think I will let it soak for a while and get on with the electrolysis tank build. Time to poke around and see how others have done it.
Curtis

[Sugarmaker]

Curtis,
Stop! Unless I am missing something and or maybe a 1A is differrent. That spacer is welded to the flat side of the case, it does not come out. Just cut the head or nut end off the bolt, the arms should slip forward todards the tractor. If I am missing something keep talking I am a little thick sometimes
Regards,
Chris

[PaulS]

Curtis if you need bearings and they just happen to be 6206, Milesburg Auto Electric has them or can get what you want. I just picked up a 6206 for my PTO there today and it was only a little over $15

[Sugarmaker]

Curtis,
OK after further review. It looks like you have the nut loose. The 1/2 inch bolt should slide out of the spacer. If its not sliding out then the bolt is rusted to the inside of the spacer which is welded on the inside of the flat case which you cant see.
I will try to find a picture of the flat case and post here.
You might need more blaster on the bolt to free it and a good wrap on the nut end. I havent seen and blaster shots yet? Ask Todd about those. You get extra point for photos with a can of blaster in them
Regards
Chris

[Sugarmaker]

Curtis,
take a look at post #79 in my thread. Shows flat portion of case with the spacer welded in place.
Regards,
Chris

[fleetlines]

Chris,
I see your weld. I thought it could be that it was riding inside that piece you have welded. It was difficult to get it freed up at all. If you look where I wrote "Spacer" I had to put that bolt back (and the other just in case) in to keep it aligned because it dropped a little inside. That would mean it wasn't sealed from air (at least on one side) and that grease in there could be all crusted up??? That was my initial concern as far as opening it. The spacer doesn't look like it was ever welded. Of course I can't push it any farther to the right (right in the pic). I guess I will have to just cut the head and what I can get of the threads off. I'm on the fence about opening it up. I'm more concerned about doing the right thing with that. I suppose I can find a pipe or something to make the spacer.
Curtis

[fleetlines]

After thinking on it, what will keep the arm from pinching against the case on the welded side if it's just flush mounted? It will have to extend through the case. That weld will be what keeps the sleeve from sliding back and forth and keeping the arm from contacting the case and scraping the paint. Therefore, I have no choice in opening it so I can do the weld inside - unless I do the weld on the outside. It seemed to me there was already a internal sleeve that the one giving me grief rides in. I hope this all makes sense.

Here's a pic I didn't post. The can was camera shy and facing away.