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  #91  
Old 10-03-2015, 06:48 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is online now
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Originally Posted by brucepts View Post
Yes, it's nice to have "toys" in the shop. Years ago when I was garden tractor pulling instead of paying someone else for parts I decided I would put that money into buying the tools I needed to build my own stuff. This was before guys where churning out parts via CNC like they are now. I started my shop with an air compressor, then some air tools, a small mig welder and started building things. Bought a lathe and a mill along the way.

I was building my own engines and a few for others so I needed a flowbench and dyno, pulling stopped being fun and was a money pit, sold my dyno and I turned my flowbench into a semi-fulltime business all on it's own. I now deal with all racing venues and am not limited to just garden tractor pulling.

Buying the machines are the easy part it's the tooling that adds $$$$'s!

My tractors are now just a hobby when I get a chance to "play" with them, I enjoy racing through my customers with none of the racing $$$$ losses.
From an ex road racer man do I know about spending $$$$$ as the saying goes, " Speed cost's money, how fast do you want to go?". Your smart being on the supply side of how much power do you want.
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  #92  
Old 10-16-2015, 07:35 PM
brucepts brucepts is offline
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Got some welding time in today. Repairing the damaged ends, I got the plug welds done just have to go back and do the butt welds and grind everything down.

I figured it would be easier to cut the clearance angle on the ends once it was all welded. Still have to add the round pivot bushings and weld those fast to the arm bucket pivot holes.
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  #93  
Old 10-20-2015, 07:56 AM
brucepts brucepts is offline
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For those who are still following along on my journey . . . an update on my loader arm repair.

Have the new ends welded on and rough ground down. Probably going to need a skim coat of filler and a nice sand before paint. Not going for a show quality look but would like it to look presentable at least when it's finished.

I changed the way the ends are cut from factory in the one picture you can see the hard angle (black line) they should be cut from the factory. I felt this leaves less than desired material for my liking. Using my cardboard template I decided a simple 45 would give me more than enough clearance. I'm thinking the factory put more of an angle on the tube for ease of welding in the cross tube in a production environment possibly.

Up next is to address the pivot point bushing attachment that was repaired by someone prior to me owning this loader. You can see in the last pic at the top right corner how they repaired them, get out the grinder and cut all that old stuff off! I have some ideas of how I want to make this repair using some side supports to hold the pivot tube instead of just welding it fast to the arms. I'll have to get out the old skol cardboard template and do some "playing" with my ideas, wish I had a plasma cutter . . . . probably end up buying one after this project is in-use, how my luck usually works out.

I also picked up new pins from McMaster Carr and plan on drilling and tapping these to add grease zerks to lube all the pivot points.

I sure hope when I am dead and gone that whoever buys this loader at my public auction appreciates all the "extras" I am adding to this loader!
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  #94  
Old 10-27-2015, 07:57 PM
brucepts brucepts is offline
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For those out there that haven't gotten bored with this thread and are still following along . . . my level pivot arms (what I am calling them anyways) were damaged, holes all egged out and bent on one side and non-existent on the other side.

Here are the pics of the new ones I made today.

At this point in the project I'm really thinking I should have just built a loader from scratch with all the repair I'm having to do to this one!
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  #95  
Old 11-05-2015, 09:03 AM
Devans Devans is offline
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Hey Bruce I finally made it over here and can post.
I went through all ten pages and kept thinking I thought mine was in bad shape. You've overcome some pretty good obstacles so far and are on your way to having a really nice loader.
There are some interesting subframe configurations going on here and I have to ask, how well do the flat stock frames hold up? There didn't seem to be much bracing and it would seem to me they would have more flex then tube or even angle iron. Just an out of curiosity question I'm not bashing here. I do see where there are front and rear attachment points so maybe that's the secret.
Looking forward to more progress reports.
Don
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  #96  
Old 11-06-2015, 07:13 AM
brucepts brucepts is offline
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Welcome aboard Don!

Yes, been an interesting project. More than I was expecting but learning along the way and that is half the fun!

Looking back I probably should have just made a loader from scratch with what I have done with this project already.

I gave some thought to various sub-frame options and settled on tube over flat stock. I think either is fine, actually flat might be better in some respects as your loads are up/down and with "X" bracing you resist the side loads if there are any. I went with tube as I felt this would keep my sub-frame more compact in height and I tend to over-think things too!

I'm in a holding pattern right now on this project as business has picked up in my shop on real orders so the customer comes first . . .
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  #97  
Old 11-06-2015, 07:30 AM
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Hind sight is always 20-20 as they say
I wondered why you didn't cut the end @ *45 and plug in a piece of solid stock and weld it, after you drilled the holes on the end repair?
Just a different path to the end result.
Might of been some milling to get a snug fit inside the rectangular tubing I guess??
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  #98  
Old 11-06-2015, 09:50 AM
Devans Devans is offline
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Welcome aboard Don!

Yes, been an interesting project. More than I was expecting but learning along the way and that is half the fun!

Looking back I probably should have just made a loader from scratch with what I have done with this project already.

I gave some thought to various sub-frame options and settled on tube over flat stock. I think either is fine, actually flat might be better in some respects as your loads are up/down and with "X" bracing you resist the side loads if there are any. I went with tube as I felt this would keep my sub-frame more compact in height and I tend to over-think things too!

I'm in a holding pattern right now on this project as business has picked up in my shop on real orders so the customer comes first . . .
Mine has a tube frame from the factory, it was designed for an earlier version of tractor and just carried over to the newer one that I have. Consensus is it didn't work as well. I will be extending the subframe back to the axle to make it more rigid.

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Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Hind sight is always 20-20 as they say
I wondered why you didn't cut the end @ *45 and plug in a piece of solid stock and weld it, after you drilled the holes on the end repair?
Just a different path to the end result.
Might of been some milling to get a snug fit inside the rectangular tubing I guess??
That would have been impressive but overkill I think too. The loader only has X amount of capacity. The more you add the more you take away from what it will lift. The original design may seem light duty to some but ask this question. How old is this attachment. A lot of loaders are 70's and 80's vintage.
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  #99  
Old 11-06-2015, 05:26 PM
brucepts brucepts is offline
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Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Hind sight is always 20-20 as they say
I wondered why you didn't cut the end @ *45 and plug in a piece of solid stock and weld it, after you drilled the holes on the end repair?
Just a different path to the end result.
Might of been some milling to get a snug fit inside the rectangular tubing I guess??
There is a round tube welded into the ends of the arms. It sits flush with the inside wall and is then welded to the tube walls. The picture posted above is showing the tube without the welding done. I don't think I took a picture after welding.

EDIT: I see what you are saying now about a solid end piece, yes a lot more work to the end-game. Having it open on that end allows you to cutout the worn bearing tube should it become "egged out"

That is how the factory did it so I replicated their process, I did change the angle cut off from factory after using my cardboard template to confirm it would clear the bucket.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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