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View Poll Results: What color should the wheels be?
White Wheels 36 81.82%
Red Wheels 8 18.18%
Voters: 44. You may not vote on this poll

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  #71  
Old 01-13-2018, 09:07 PM
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cadetmike cadetmike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
A lock washer might work fine, it will crush before the channel does. Based on my experience squeezing the channel closed with a 3/4 inch bolt, washers and a nut. I'd prefer a big nylock nut or a spirol/cotter pin.
Good to know

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  #72  
Old 01-13-2018, 09:09 PM
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cadetmike cadetmike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaynjeep View Post
Looks good Mike! Nice clutch crossmember! You won't ever have trouble with that i don't believe!!
Thanks Jay,

Thats the idea!
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  #73  
Old 01-16-2018, 07:09 PM
Chardie Chardie is offline
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If your 122 is just going to be a toy would you consider selling the headlights? I’ll send you the blank from mine
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  #74  
Old 01-16-2018, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Chardie View Post
If your 122 is just going to be a toy would you consider selling the headlights? I’ll send you the blank from mine
I would but I use the heck out them
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  #75  
Old 01-17-2018, 07:50 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Originally Posted by ironman View Post
I like the idea of welding the axle nut and will be doing such to a 70 project that I am currently working on. However I'm thinking that a large lock washer would work in place of the collar on the other side. Opinions anyone?
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Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Use a stover nut on the axle pin, no lock washer needed.
Probably the best idea, however he did slim down the thickness of the nut he welded on, I assume for oil pan space. Would slimming down a stover nut leave enough locking threads?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
A lock washer might work fine, it will crush before the channel does. Based on my experience squeezing the channel closed with a 3/4 inch bolt, washers and a nut. I'd prefer a big nylock nut or a spirol/cotter pin.
Also a good idea but of course you would drill the hole through the bolt for the pin after you have everything in place and tightened to where you are satisfied. Somewhere in the future if you take things apart, will the holes all line up again when you re-assemble? I guess you could just put in a new bolt and re-drill.
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  #76  
Old 01-18-2018, 07:13 AM
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cadetmike cadetmike is offline
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Parts have started to come in, and I have started to reassemble a little bit.
I also sent out the block and crank to get the machine work done so that should be back in a week or so.
After some debate I decided to bite the bullet and order a new wiring harness from Mike. The original one is pretty beat and I don't trust it, so out with the old and in with the new.
I will get some more pictures up soon... while I am thinking about it, anyone know what weight gear oil to put in the rear?
(I know I could look it up but I'm lazy like that lol)
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  #77  
Old 01-18-2018, 07:45 AM
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Im looking forward to seeing it all come together.... it's going to be a new machine (or better than new!)
__________________
61 and 63 Originals
123 (2)
782D
106,
147, 122
102
parts

It's only original ONCE!
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  #78  
Old 01-18-2018, 08:24 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Just a suggestion on the axle pivot bolt:
I would like to see the bolt threads just about bottom out in the welded nut,
so there is full support in the axle casting without being exposed to bolt threads.
A longer bolt would be needed and it might be necessary to add some thread with a die to accomplish this.
Of course it would need cut to appropriate overall length.
----prolly just my anal ocd.
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  #79  
Old 01-18-2018, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadetmike View Post
... while I am thinking about it, anyone know what weight gear oil to put in the rear?
(I know I could look it up but I'm lazy like that lol)
It's a non-hydro garden tractor going 2 to 7 mph not a Lamborghini. It's not going to produce any heat, so you can use anything from sewing machine oil to #90 gear oil, it's your tractor. The book will recommend Hy-tran. Personally I think a high quality 20w-50 oil for motorcycle transmissions, such as Castrol Power1 is a good alternative to Hy-tran for gear rear ends. But alas, now the debates can begin.
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  #80  
Old 01-18-2018, 06:43 PM
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cadetmike cadetmike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Just a suggestion on the axle pivot bolt:
I would like to see the bolt threads just about bottom out in the welded nut,
so there is full support in the axle casting without being exposed to bolt threads.
A longer bolt would be needed and it might be necessary to add some thread with a die to accomplish this.
Of course it would need cut to appropriate overall length.
----prolly just my anal ocd.
I had thought of that, hadn't decided if I wanted to bother with it tho, thanks for the suggestion.
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