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#1
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129 will not fire.
I have a question and a head scratcher for yall. I bought a 129 about a month ago. When I got it home it ran but would randomly shut off while operating. After about a week it would not start, the motor turns over but no fire in the cylinder. First I cleaned the carb and checked the spark plug. I can visably see spark on the plug and smell fuel. Still no fire. So I replaced the spark plug anyway and reset the timing on it, per Matt G's wonderful static timing guide...thanks for that by the way it truly is amazing....but still no fire. I feel it is somewhere in the ignition sequence...just gut feeling though. The battery is also brand new when I bought the mower and has 400 cranking amps. My connections seem good. I was checking the ignition coil. Doing so my multimeter read 3.2 ohms for the primary and 10k and some change for the secondary. I do not know what the ohms are suppose to be but 3.2 for the primary seemed high, does anyone know?
If that is not the problem can any one suggest something I might be overlooking? I know it is there somewhere. Any help would be appreciated |
#2
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With your meter, do you have 12VDC from the (+) positive Ignition Coil terminal and the (-) negative terminal on the battery, while the engine rolls over...??
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#3
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Quote:
I don't know how you found Matt G's static timing procedure. The link doesn't work anymore.... Probably should be deleted. He no longer hangs out on here anyway. As far as where the issue actually is..... see below. Quote:
Here's the spec: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11 Quote:
If you do in fact have fire, there are only two other possibilities. Either you aren't getting (any or enough) fuel, or you don't have compression. That being either the ACR (Automatic Compression Release) is not working correctly, or you have a blown head gasket, stuck valve.... broke rod. (Don't laugh, we've seen people who didn't have any idea the piston wasn't moving up and down.) Pretty simple little machines. Just need air, fuel, and fire to run. It's not getting one of them. |
#4
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So I pulled open the valve cover and the cam cover. I reset the tappets some reason or another they were to tight. Not sure why maybe the previous owner tinkered with them, as well the ACR seems to be functioning normally.. During this I hade the carb off agsin and decided to go ahead and do a quick spray cleaning on it again...doing so I noticed that very little fuel is actual making into the bowl. Fuel is flowing to the carb well I can turn the fuel on and it comes out of the line fine. I pulled the the elbow off leading into the carb. It "seems" the inlet seat is clear. Im thinking the needle or the float may be at fault. The float doesn't seem to move as much as it should...maybe keeping the needle from opening up enough.. I dunno...I am getting ready to head out and tinker with it some more. Just thought I would put some thoughts and obsercstions up here.
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#5
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Well I got her running again. Telling yall what was wrong makes me sound a bit stupid...cuz it was...but maybe someone else will learn a lesson from me. The problem was in the carb not getting enough fuel. I figured it out because the other night I forgot to shut the fuel off and when I went out to work on it enough fuel had accumulated in the bowl that the engine started for a minute or so. So I pulled the carb off again and tried to figure out what was wrong. I could not find any trash. Then I realized after the first time disassembling it I was not putting the Fuel inlet needle back in right. I realized the spring is also a clip and is suppose to attach to the float. I had it sitting on top of it, effectively jamming into the fuel inlet and keeping it from having enough fuel to start. My impatience caused me to not pay close attention when I disassembled the carb the first time, to make sure I put back together correctly, something so simple and small kept it from running for 2 weeks...lesson learned. On the positive side during that time I did reset my timing and tappets and it is running better now than when I bought it. I downloaded a copy of the k301 manual. I discovered that my carb is missing the baffle gasket from inside. I ordered a rebuild kit a few days ago, when it gets here I will be pulling the carb off one more time to get that in there and replace the stretched out bowl basket.
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#6
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Good to hear you figured it out.
__________________
Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#7
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Well back to square one.. I had my 129 running for about a day..it was running well mowed my yard and was about done when it shut down and would not restart. It tries to start, it rolls over a few times then kicks back so hard the belt on the s/g squeals. As well the carb and air filter has a coating oil in it. So I am fearing a blown head gasket. If yall have any insight I would love to hear it.
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#8
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The oil is most likely from the breather on the side of the engine. When the tractor shuts off do you still have spark?
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#9
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Quote:
Have you cleaned the entire fuel system and installed new fuel hose (if it has hose)? I agree with Tim on that it's likely the breather vent that has gotten oil on the carb...... but a picture would help us confirm. |
#10
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Here are some photos I am not sure they will help and they are not the best.
If it is in the oil breather I am not sure what? I made sure it was reassembled right, the filter is cleanish the drain hole clear the air hole clear. The valves were moving ok. I adjusted the tappets because I could get my feeler guage in between them. Could adjusting them wrong be the issue? I figured if that were the case it would not have ran at all and it did run and sounded ok for a day |
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