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#11
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What oil are you running in it?
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#12
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Quote:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1518183795 I would double check to make sure the breather assembly is installed correctly. Next step I would do is remove the head to make sure there is no gouges-marks in the cylinder.
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Project Uncle Dick Cub Cadet 70 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick |
#13
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If an engine is using huge amounts of oil, and recently rebuilt, something went amiss in the process.
It is normal to use a little oil till the rings seal, but not huge amounts. Did you bore it or have it done? Is this your first attempt or are you experienced at engine rebuilding? Did you put the piston rings in the bore individually, and check the end clearance before installing them on the piston, and assembling? Was the bore washed thoroughly with hot soapy water before any assy. was done? It sounds like it got hot during break-in and you sized the piston, causing ring/piston/cyl. damage. But we need a lot more info before advising investigative tare down, as this may well not be the case. |
#14
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129 CC rattling
What would that cause if not shimmed correctly?
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#15
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129 CC rattling
Had it bored out by a reputable shop in Billings, Mt. He fit the piston to the bore and end ring gap was checked, with in specs. The cylinder was washed out with brake clean and dried and coated with oil. Piston cleaned the same and coated with oil. All parts on assembly were cleaned and assembled the same. Rod journal had a light coat of lithium grease applied at assembly. Head was lapped on glass plate till flat. Valves were ground as well as seats. Valves lapped by me and my brother. Brother is Detroit Mech w/over 30 years experience. New crank bearing on pto end. New valve springs. Cam reinstalled with all shims. Something has gone wrong with the piston and rings because it is using more oil than it should. If carb was set too rich it could wash out the oil in the rings causing failure of the oil rings, I guess. Have built engines in the past and have never had this trouble. Getting older and maybe I'm losing it!
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#16
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Mobil one synthetic
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#17
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Just like the picture shows.
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#18
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129 CC rattling
What is the best procedure for break in?
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#19
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Quote:
I use Kohler engine oil. I use straight 30 weight above 32 degrees and 10W-30 below 32 degrees. Quote:
Vary the RPM from idle to wide open for 45 minutes. Change oil. Drive your Cub Cadet around for the next 45 to 60 minutes. Vary the RPMs as you drive it. I like to pull a light load like a half loaded trailer or aerator. Change oil again. Put a heavier load on it. Vary the RPMs. After 2-3 hours of run time I find a event like a plow day or something I can put a heavy load on it and drive it like stole it. This is how I break in any Kohler engine I rebuild. Anyone that I rebuild an engine for gets told the same thing. I haven't had one let go.
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Project Uncle Dick Cub Cadet 70 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick |
#20
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When rebuilding chevy engines, that's what I learned from old Smokey! I followed Brian Miller's advice on this break in and used 30 wt dino oil for the first oil change than switched to synthetic. That, could have been the problem. He said to run it at almost wide open for an hour and I think that was too much heat on the rings. Looks like another rebuild is in the maken's. Damn.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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