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#11
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Got a fan? Does it turn freely? Is the radiator plugged first on the front with crud, then possibly inside?
If that doesn't work, just drive with the hood off. Or frequent car washes. #becauseroadkill.
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#12
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Fan works, no crud to speak of on radiator and #roadkill. Love that show
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-Ryan
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#13
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First thing I would do is to make sure the gauge is working properly, it is a gm. They have known dash gauge issue's.
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102 soon to be tiller machine 108 mower 73 plow machine 169 soon to be mower 122x2 now parts machines Parts 129 149 parts 61 "O" 104 job to be determined |
#14
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Hmmm.... if the gauges are electrical, perhaps there poor grounding somewhere. Had a VW GTI with that very issue. It was saying HOT but it wasn't.
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#15
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Couple things: is there any way to verify "proper" engine temp so I can verify gauge readings?
Second things is, I'm doing some digging online about similar issues. One thing I'm noticing is the trans can affect coolant temp but what's getting me 1) I "only" replaced about 4-5qts of trans fluid with what the manual suggested, Dex III, and the new filter snapped into place and the truck is shifting just fine. 2) IF it was an issue with the trans somehow causing overheating, wouldn't it be a more gradual rise in temp and not a rapid 30-40 degree rise in less than a minute or two? I'm starting to get tired so perhaps I'm having an information overload and things aren't adding up like they should. I'm just getting paranoid after doing some normal service on my truck caused these issues to start popping up Edit: I'm starting to doubt the trans issue (the internet is a wonderful place, isn't it :-/) because as I stated before, when I turn my heat on, even when the engine is getting too hot, I have luke warm to warm air coming out, nothing hot like it should be. Back to thermostat theory? haha
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-Ryan
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#16
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Sounds like a thermostat to me as well. I have a 2001 with the 4.8 and it was not a very big job.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#17
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Did you use a funnel to fill the radiator?
There is a special tool ,as most radiators sit lower than heater cores these days , you have to burp the system . Thermo stat , due to also check to see if the radiator is flowing ,any cool spots on it if so rad time or rod out time if it can ,plus is the fan clutch locking ( big roar from fan ) |
#18
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-Ryan
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#19
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Is the cooling system full? In all this you never stated if you checked the coolant level....
If the tank looks full, then (DO THIS WITH THE ENGINE COLD) take one of the coolant hoses loose that runs to the heater. I usually do it up next to the water pump. Might be air locked. I really hate reading threads like this. I really try to avoid it. All the answers that have to do with other vehicles that are not a 2001 Chevy..... a 350 motor and a 5.3 aren't even made anywhere near similar. The T-stat on a 5.3 is mounted to the water pump and is on the lower side of the system, not the top side. In other words, when the t-stat opens, it lets water circulate into the bottom of the motor, not out the top. The water pump bypass circulates through the heater, so if the t-stat was stuck shut the heater should have been so hot he couldn't stand it, not just warm. I'd say either the water pump went out, or it's low on coolant. Some of these had plastic impellers on the water pumps. Not all that uncommon for them to come off the shaft. I've even seen steel impellers do it. Check the coolant level, then see if the water pump is circulating. If not, replace it. Tim, I don't know where you bought bad t-stats at the you need to check them before installation. I've probably changed at least 600 thermostats. Probably only 10 or 15 were bad that were new. Not very often has that happened. |
#20
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Some Gm thermostats have a wax "pellet" inside that when overheated, melts and renders the thermostat junk, replace thermostat just to be safe.
Also some vehicles collect a tremendous amount road debris between radiator and AC condenser mounted in front of it. Remove cover retaining radiator, and check between them. I always remove the radiator and clean the junk out between, and back blow the outside of radiator with air pressure after washing with water several times. It is unbelievable what gets stuck in the front side of a rad. it is also a good idea to back blow the AC condenser to remove debris and carefully straighten bent fins with a fin comb. Do not use high pressure water from a pressure washer, as you will destroy the fins. |
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