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#41
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Well, I went to the meeting and had no luck. I now have to apply for a variance and go through that process. The deadline for the August public hearing was July 4th so I missed that and now I have to wait until September 7th and plead my case and hope they approve.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#42
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No, I guess that would be jail time. It works that way in the movies, or Hollyweird. Welcome to America...
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Make the best of each day , Todd Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
#43
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There was a time when you saw the building inspector to get a permit he would open his desk draw and leave the room.
If you closed the draw after he returned you were approved instantly.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#44
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I wish you good luck Todd but if nothing work bring the special donuts at their next reunion and remove all hygiene paper rolls from their bathroom
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Gilles. 1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade 1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck 1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby 1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage 1963 100 (red)/in storage 2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap) |
#45
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and smelly, and noisy. They will be using their socks to wipe themselves
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#46
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But if your an evil minded like me you cover the "trone" with a large cellophane film too....Thrust me I did this before and there gone need the janitor mop to wipe each others a$$ This thread is going on the shitty side anyway...LMAO
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Gilles. 1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade 1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck 1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby 1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage 1963 100 (red)/in storage 2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap) |
#47
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Well, 11 months later and not even close.
Got the old barn torn down. DSCN3430.jpg Saved a bunch of the old lumber to finish off a "man cave area". Look at the roof decking....tounge & groove Oak. DSCN3458.jpg I save everything I could so I have a nice stack if the termites don't get to it before I do. Like most people her in the south, we got hammered with rain in May and I couldn't do much. Got about 3" of rain one night and my footings filled with water. Took a long time to pump that out and even longer to shovel all the muck out. IMG_4898.jpg My buddy dug the footing while I was at work and he had to go a little deeper than I wanted but I'm on pretty good soil now. This is a monolithic slab and should only turn have gone 18" deep but we are at 3' in some spots. I made the decision to pour a footer for the mono-slab to set on. It will be about 20" wide and anywhere from 12" to 2' thick. I purchased 5000lbs of 60 grade #4 rebar to run in the footings and in the slab. This weekend I ran 3 runs of rebar on 3" chairs to set in the footings. I then ran vertical rebar up every 5' to turn down into the slab when I start working that part. Dang it was hot here but I took my time and took plenty of breaks and drank lots of water. In the first pic you can see that I laid out (3) 100' rolls of 6 mil plastic to keep the mud out of the footings. DSCN3904.jpg DSCN3900.jpg I'm not sure how it is in others parts of this great country but it is super expensive to hire contractors here in Georgia. I got a few prices for the mono-slab and they are getting near $10.00/sq ft here....Yes, I was quoted $24,000.00 for a 4" thick slab with no rebar and only wire mesh being used. I asked about doing a stem wall type pour and was quoted over $36,000.00. That is why I'm doing it myself.+ I can use to loose a few pounds.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#48
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Cool to see progress!
We can't do monolithic slabs here because of freeze/thaw. Not on a building. Do it a lot with pavilions and just outdoor slabs. We either do stem-wall, or similar. That said, when doing a pole building, we seldom use footers. Generally we put of the building, case the lower half in treated lumber and fill the floor into the area, no footer except at the door openings. (At door openings a footer is put in place, then the floor poured on top of it.) If the building isn't heated, the floor will float on the freeze. If heated, the underneath side stays thawed, so no issue. The building is supported on the posts that are set, so no worries. If stick built, like I said, stem-wall (poured foundation, then mason block up to the desired height) or sometimes poured walls depending on application. You mentioned cost.... yeah, concrete work is expensive. We just built a 1 car garage for a lady late last fall. (Finished in December.) We had the foundation poured, wall poured to 18" or so, then floor poured. Garage was like 12'X24' and had a breezeway that attached it to the house that was maybe 5'X10'. I think the floor was 4". The company we sub'd leveled the area and dug the foundation, so they did all the base work. It was about $9,000 if I remember correctly, and they didn't do the driveway. Some of her family did that. We built the garage and breezeway. I think our part was about $7,000. So.... yeah. It's expensive. |
#49
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Good to see a little progress, but I know it ain't happening as fast as it should. Up here it's the same story with concrete work. Ain't cheap.
We just got two quotes on sealcoating the driveway, bout chit myself. We had the blacktop put in last summer, and it was recommended to have that done the next year. Taint cheap either... Good luck Todd, at least you can do some of it yourself. And you do need to lose a few pounds.
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Make the best of each day , Todd Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
#50
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Looks good Todd! I built a Steel shop building about 20 years ago on a monolithic slab.... went ahead and did footers even though I didn't have to.. 2 ft deep on one side to get down to the original dirt level before fill.. I have never regretted it.. no issues with cracking or settling at all.. I didn't use rebar but did use fiber reinforced concrete.
Keep us posted!! Progress looks good!
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Jay 40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets! Proud owner of the following: Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer |
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