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  #21  
Old 08-06-2017, 01:45 PM
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OldSkull OldSkull is offline
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30W non-detergent or synthetic oil is what they need in summer, 10W30 is what they need in cold weather (winter). The reason for using non-detergent oil in a K series is simple "NO OIL FILTER SYSTEM" so you don't want to wash the crankcase and bring back those nasty particles back in your oil, better let them stick where they are.

Now I can give you a long list of good oil brand but the shell Rotella 30W you use is a good one, Mobil Delvac 1630 is another good choice. 30w synthetic are pretty expensive but some guy find them for cheaper at a local boat dealer (Look for the Volvo Penta brand apparently)

Now "IF" you decide to rebuild your engine yourself, add a dial bore gauge to your list of tools already suggested and learn how-to set it and use it, you can get one today for
-$50 and they are enough accurate for mechanical precision spec demand (.001).
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1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
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  #22  
Old 08-06-2017, 03:06 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Unless you own a boring bar, you don't need a bore guage. The machine shop will take care of all that. A good set of ribbon gauges are handy though to make sure the shop fit the piston correctly.
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  #23  
Old 08-06-2017, 04:27 PM
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Unless you own a boring bar, you don't need a bore guage. The machine shop will take care of all that. A good set of ribbon gauges are handy though to make sure the shop fit the piston correctly.
Jon, you can wait for the machine shop to tell you what you need and lost one or two extra weeks before getting the job done or you can save big money and time doing the disassembly part, taking your measurements and ordering your rebuilt kit from EB for dirt cheap. Then your bring the block, the crank, the rebuilt kit and the valves if you want the machine shop to do that for you too and you save some precious waiting time.

Machine shop quote for rebuilt kit is let say...insane sometime and a cylinder boring and crankshaft grinding cost me $300 loonies, for the K321 I did, imagine if I let them do all the job for me...So a boring tool is not just a luxury tool for me, even a simple telescopic set can be useful.

Tell me Jon, do you check the bore and condition of a cylinder each time you open one of those engine to do a valves or just a head gasket job? I bet you do, if you don't I never let you work on my engine.
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Gilles.
1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #24  
Old 08-06-2017, 04:53 PM
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Gilles,
I have overhauled hundreds of motors, and only in the last few years owned a bore gauge. I disassemble and evaluate the parts, but the block goes straight to a machine shop. Usually within two days of drop off they rough cut the bore, then call and tell me what size it will be, then I order the kit. Even with a bore gauge, you can't always find the lowest spot in the cylinder, especially if it has a scratch of a groove in it. You just have to bore until it goes away. I am 100 times more interested in the fit of the piston, than the size of the bore. Whether it is standard, .010" over or .040" over, the piston fit is the key the life of the motor. You check that with a ribbon gauge. I never go back standard when I overhaul an engine, so I had no need to check the bore. Don't care what it is, only what it will be so I can order a kit, and the machine shop tells me right away what I need. All this also goes for the crankshaft. While I do own mic's, and do check cranks, it is still irrelevant until it is ground and true. Measuring a crank is much easier than measuring a bore anyway. Along with a bore gauge, you also need a set of calibration gauges to set the bore gauge. Every time you change out the size of the tip on the bore gauge, you have to calibrate it to the new standard cylinder size. If you also own a micrometer, you can use it to set the tool..... but there is simply no reason for DIY guy to own a set of these tools when the machine shop does all the work for you. As I stated, even as a professional, I didn't own a bore gauge until about 5 years ago. Even now, it seldom gets used. Going to bore it no matter what, and I don't own a boring bar.... so, it sits in the toolbox.
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2017, 05:34 PM
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Well working around Bell helicopter, Bombardier and Pratt & Whittney Ap mechanic and technician at my local airfield made me a bit paranoid about precision...But that's me and I completely assuming my condition

Now my local airfield close 3 months ago, all my friend are relocate 40 miles from my place so I have no access to the Sioux valves grinding tool

I need one of those Neway kit to do those Kohler engine any tips to share? I guest not.... not the place, not the moment, not the subject of this thread even if we talk about a possible rebuilding job
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1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #26  
Old 08-06-2017, 08:12 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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Let the pros be pros is how I was taught. If you measure it and it needs to go to the machine shop, let them tell you what piston and rod/bearings to buy. They will advise if you need new valves. That's the way the IH dealer dad retired from did it anyway. The 2 shops we always dealt with will let you know usually in 2-3 days what parts to order. They will even let you send in your parts and have them reassemble the engine if you want. Or they can order from their suppliers.
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  #27  
Old 08-07-2017, 03:18 AM
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Im not sure on this as I am far no "expert" on Anything but it appears this subject has turned in to a pissing contest.
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  #28  
Old 08-07-2017, 08:31 AM
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Im not sure on this as I am far no "expert" on Anything but it appears this subject has turned in to a pissing contest.
No pissing contest at all, this is normal "$hit chat", Jon know his game and I live in my own world surrounded by PT6 unicorn and little Continental powered Jodel fairy...LMAO
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Gilles.
1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #29  
Old 08-07-2017, 10:15 AM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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I follow Jonathan's method. Disassemble, take to machine shop, they call a couple days later with bore specs, I order the kit and it's in hand a few days later. I bought a bore mic, but it's not worth the effort IMO.

As for rebuilding your own engine, it's not for everyone, but it is something that you can learn to do. The effort will vary depending on your aptitude and prior experience. I'm no professional mechanic, but I've been building and repairing things since I was a kid. For me, with the Kohler manual, it's a straightforward process. I've done a half dozen over the past 5 years.

As for computers, Jon, you could learn to build one if you really wanted to do it. I'm quite sure. But like you, there are things I always call the pro for--like septic system work...
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  #30  
Old 08-07-2017, 11:45 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSkull View Post
No pissing contest at all, this is normal "$hit chat", Jon know his game and I live in my own world surrounded by PT6 unicorn and little Continental powered Jodel fairy...LMAO
Lol!



Frank,
I'm sure I could learn..... but that's what my bro Lance does, so I have no desire, lol.
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