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  #1  
Old 10-18-2017, 08:51 AM
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sorner sorner is offline
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Default Steering cylinder rebuild?

I have a leaker from the shaft seal, and I have searched the forum and can't find any information on the subject other than replacing it with a new one. Has anyone disassembled the steering hydraulic cylinder to rebuild it themselves? I rebuilt a lift cylinder for my old Jacobseb GT14 Hydro that was a welded one just like this. I opened it up very carefully with a sawsall (since I don't have access to a lathe) and disassembled everything, got the seal sizes, and ordered the new seals from hercules.com, cleaned everything up, welded it back up and pressure tested it with my air compressor and painted it and it worked great. I'm just wondering if anyone has the sizes of the seals in this unit so I can price them out before cutting mine open, at this point I have nothing to lose, if I ruin it I would just end up buying a new one anyway. If nobody has any info to offer other than buying new, or taking it to a shop to have it rebuilt, I will go it alone and post back my hopefully favorable results.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:04 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Taking it to a shop is the best thing to do. I have no idea how you ever cut one open with a sawzall, welded it back together and it work. If you don't weld the cap on straight, it will gald the rod, and leak. After watching you fix things on here, I also have to say that for some reason you are one of the most lucky people on earth. You should play the lottery.

Seriously, please don't hack up the cylinder. A welding shop should cut it open and weld it back together for you for a small price. You can rebuild it, just have it cut and welded on a lathe. The seals are o-rings, they can be gotten out of any $25 red box o-ring kit that you buy at a parts store. You don't need to "source" them.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:04 AM
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Here is a link but not much info. I know Kelly did one. Please report back on what you used and pics would be nice too.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ht=cubs+boxers
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:22 AM
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After watching you fix things on here, I also have to say that for some reason you are one of the most lucky people on earth. You should play the lottery.
I have no idea what this is referring to, but I'm ignoring it. You know nothing about me and my "luck". I don't really believe in luck though. If I didn't have bad "luck", I'd have no luck at all.

Anyhow... The one I did before I cut from the bottom end weld, not the top. When I put it back together I clamped it in a vice and squared it up with a straight edge and then tack welded it and checked it again before welding it the rest of the way. it was pretty much perfectly straight. I'm not sure how taking it apart at the back can cause anything to be thrown off for the shaft to cause wear. I can see how cutting the top off could risk that happening. Also, the one I did before took two seals in opposite directions on the piston. I already have an assortment kit of new nitrile O-rings. There is a welding shop right down the road from me, I will check into having them do the cutting and welding. I didn't think of that option, so that advice was helpful.
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IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sorner View Post
I didn't think of that option, so that advice was helpful.
Proof that if you sift through Jon's rant's you can find helpful information.
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Old 10-18-2017, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
Proof that if you sift through Jon's rant's you can find helpful information.
Jon almost always gives good info... with some and a little

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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #7  
Old 10-18-2017, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sorner View Post
I have a leaker from the shaft seal, and I have searched the forum and can't find any information on the subject other than replacing it with a new one. Has anyone disassembled the steering hydraulic cylinder to rebuild it themselves? I rebuilt a lift cylinder for my old Jacobseb GT14 Hydro that was a welded one just like this. I opened it up very carefully with a sawsall (since I don't have access to a lathe) and disassembled everything, got the seal sizes, and ordered the new seals from hercules.com, cleaned everything up, welded it back up and pressure tested it with my air compressor and painted it and it worked great. I'm just wondering if anyone has the sizes of the seals in this unit so I can price them out before cutting mine open, at this point I have nothing to lose, if I ruin it I would just end up buying a new one anyway. If nobody has any info to offer other than buying new, or taking it to a shop to have it rebuilt, I will go it alone and post back my hopefully favorable results.

sorner the rod and piston do not have seals they are o-rings and you should be able to go to an auto store and just match the old ones with new. I've done at least 4 cub power steering cylinders in the past and they are pretty straight forward. I think I would find a local machine shop and have them cut the weld off. Sawzall is pretty primitive and I would think a much higher chance of failure.
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Old 10-18-2017, 04:21 PM
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Awesome. Thanks. I was only going on what I’ve seen before that had actual seals in them. I’ll find someone to crack it open and close it up.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #9  
Old 10-18-2017, 07:35 PM
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I wonder if you can use a heavy duty iron pipe cutter, you know the thingy that goes round and round till it cuts through to do the job instead of the sawzy all?
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
I wonder if you can use a heavy duty iron pipe cutter, you know the thingy that goes round and round till it cuts through to do the job instead of the sawzy all?
I think we have a weener. The right sized one would probably work perfect. Good suggestion LP

I used a big one of those to cut the 6 inch diameter pipes filled with concrete to put in the basement between the halves of modular homes to support them. Worked great but “Low man on the totem pole” literally.
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