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  #21  
Old 10-10-2017, 09:23 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by ccpullin View Post
The solenoids are to prevent after running (dieseling), and explosions in the muffler when a warm engine is turned off, by blocking fuel at the main jet in the carburetor.
Which can be prevented the same way it was before there was a solenoid. Simply by letting the engine idle for a short while before shutting it off. Which you should do anyway. That practice makes for longer engine life anyway, and should be done whether there is a solenoid or not. I'd delete it and not think twice.
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  #22  
Old 10-10-2017, 10:37 AM
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Never had any after run problems with the 2 I had.
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  #23  
Old 10-10-2017, 04:54 PM
ccpullin ccpullin is offline
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They at times will after run after a good work out, even when idling for a while before turning off. Blowing up a muffler is more costly that just purchasing a carburetor and fixing it as it was intended to be. Never the less, his problem is not the solenoid, it is probably a 50 cent diode.
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  #24  
Old 10-10-2017, 08:20 PM
mpfeiffer mpfeiffer is offline
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When I got back to the shop today I tried it and it fired right off. I did connect my battery tender to it tonight and it showed that it is low on charge. Short term plan will be to leave it on the tender and try in a couple days. I hope its is simple as a battery issue, but if not then on to the diode or carb from there.

Once I get past this and the leaky PS valve, then at least the tractor will be useable... PS leaks BAD. Then I can work on the little things one at a time.
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  #25  
Old 10-10-2017, 09:50 PM
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Good thing you got it figured out. I’d rather put in a new battery than tear into that wiring harness.
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  #26  
Old 10-15-2017, 07:27 PM
mpfeiffer mpfeiffer is offline
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Update--- Kept the 2182 hooked up to the battery tender for several days. Went out this morning and it fired right up. Gonna let it sit another couple days and try again before I can say its a bad battery. Would have never suspected the battery based on how well the starter was turning the engine over. Hopefully this is a nice easy fix...
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  #27  
Old 10-25-2017, 09:55 PM
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Further Update: Looks as if the battery is not the issue after all. Tractor is acting up just the same. I had some time this evening to investigate more. My discovery is that by testing with a voltmeter, when the key is in the "on" position, there is 12 volts to the fuel cut off solenoid on the carb. However once you turn the key to the "start" position, voltage to the carb solenoid drops to 7 volts. Interesting part is that you get this same condition if the key is turned even without the brake pedal depressed. Voltage is bleeding off in the harness somehow.
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  #28  
Old 10-25-2017, 10:12 PM
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Probably at the ignition switch. Check the connections on the switch. Common problem.
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  #29  
Old 10-26-2017, 10:11 AM
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Further Update: Looks as if the battery is not the issue after all. Tractor is acting up just the same. I had some time this evening to investigate more. My discovery is that by testing with a voltmeter, when the key is in the "on" position, there is 12 volts to the fuel cut off solenoid on the carb. However once you turn the key to the "start" position, voltage to the carb solenoid drops to 7 volts. Interesting part is that you get this same condition if the key is turned even without the brake pedal depressed. Voltage is bleeding off in the harness somehow.
There is always Sams fix for solenoids.
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  #30  
Old 10-26-2017, 11:06 AM
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There is always Sams fix for solenoids.
None of my stuff has solenoids, if it's not there it can't break.
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