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Cub 1450 engine mount questions
Hello all!
Thanks again for the previous help on my flex coupled issue. New flange on the way. Hope to have it fixed this weekend. New question: While I have this tractor in the shop...I noticed that these rubber mounts look pretty bad. See pictures. I ran the engine without the driveshaft, and it didn’t seem to move or shakenaround much at all. But there was no load on it either. Should these be changed? The rear mounting bolts in the picture look loose. It may be because of the rubber is distorted. Not sure. I tried to tighten this, but I can’t find a way to hold the top of the bolt from turning. I worry that this will ruin the new flange and flex coupler. This machine only gets ran to pull a couple trailers occasionally. If I can get 50 hours out of the new flex coupler and flange the way it is, I would probably avoid ripping it apart. Should this get repaired? Do I need to pull the engine out, etc to do it? One of the pictures is upside down, sorry. Thanks again. I wish I had more time to work on it cause I enjoy it. Mike Langhorne, PA |
#2
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9/16" crows foot wrench.
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#3
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In my opinion those look pretty bad and should be replaced. There's also a modification to the mount to strengthen it to keep it from happening again. Yes the engine needs to come out. You will continue to wear driveline parts and could strip the mounting holly holes out on the aluminum oil pan.
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Doug Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift 1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist. 50C deck converted to an A with front wheels 44C deck converted to an A with front wheels. QA-36A 42" blade |
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Ok thanks. Is there a thread on the forum to help with the prodedure?
What are those mounts called? Thanks again, Mike |
#5
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They are called ISO mounts. There is a rail mod tutorial on this forum but the pictures are now gone because of Photobucket. Here's a link to another tutorial. I would use real
Cub parts. http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html
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Doug Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift 1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist. 50C deck converted to an A with front wheels 44C deck converted to an A with front wheels. QA-36A 42" blade |
#6
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Send a pm to JeffinPa and he can set you up with a set of steel iso mounts. See his thread in the parts sources section of the forum. More than likely your going to need to replace them. You will get new hardware with his kits if I’m not mistaken. I went with genuine replacement as my own preference. You can remove the bottom belly pan and slip an open end wrench on the lock nut that should be next to the flywheel housing not the other way around. The head of the bolt points to the ground through the frame.
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
#7
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Quote:
Note, TWO sets shown in the picture Jeff |
#8
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"IF" I ever wear out my ISO mounts, I'll definitely be going with Jeff's solid mounts. Then you're done, never need to be gone through again...
FYI, do the cradle mod.
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Make the best of each day , Todd Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
#9
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My bad. Yes, that is another way to go.
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Doug Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift 1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist. 50C deck converted to an A with front wheels 44C deck converted to an A with front wheels. QA-36A 42" blade |
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x3! Or if I put together another QL, I'll be going with the steel mounts too
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
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