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#21
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J-Mech and all else who responded...thanks again so much. So here's where I'm at - the points were set after I located the S on the flywheel and then went a bit farther with rolling the engine. I did it the best I know how but did not use a light. I could always go back and do that (have to get a light first).
Anyway, put on new points, condenser, coil, and plug. It starts fine and sounds (sort of) ok, but the governor is (I guess what you'd call 'chasing'?) all over the place - engine sounds unsteady and when I took a short drive down the yard and back I barely had the power to get back to the driveway. It just wanted to die. So, once again, getting back to one of my earlier threads - is all this simply a problem of the engine wearing out? Recall that I've mentioned before how much oil it uses. My brother has a service station and would gladly do the engine work, but I'd have to get a short block and/or rebuilt engine. Another consideration is that I'm told you can't get the pumps anymore if it goes bad on the transmission (which already leaks fluid - has been for years). I'd still like to keep this tractor going and I know this has been suggested here as opposed to buying a new one (especially the big box variety that appear to constructed with mostly plastic and I'm told the average life of which being around 4-5 years only - whether or not that's true is undoubtedly debatable). But realistically, is it practical to keep going with this? The mower deck spindles, etc. certainly aren't real great anymore either. I noticed a good amount of play in them. My left front wheel eats through bearings at least a few times a season (main problem there is the inside of the wheel is so worn I don't even have to hammer a bearing in anymore - it's just loose in there and so goes as long as it goes until it wears out again. I keep a large supply of bearings on hand needless to say. So what to do? From all I've said you can tell I've been kind of limping along here as best I can with all this old equipment. My long-time dealer/service/repair guy no longer really wants to pick the tractors up, take to his shop, and get into any kind of major engine work. So I can't call on him regarding any of these problems. I'm truly wondering if I have some sort of carburetor problem though? Had the carburetor all apart and blew out the jets, etc. with my compressor. J-Mech - I know you also suggested that it sounds like I'm having a fuel system issue. I could take the carburetor apart again but I suspect I won't see or do anything different than I just did. Try to re-time the points with a light? Since the loss of power while mowing, etc. has been going on for awhile now, I'm still leaning towards major engine issues. Open to any and all suggestions....time to scrap the ol' Cub and buy a new one? Get a rebuilt engine (I even started a thread about it here on the classifieds section) and have my brother's shop put it in? I think I pretty much did all I can do at this point. I never expected it to sound and run worse than it did after doing (at least what I consider to be) a good amount of work on it. Thanks for any help..you guys always come through for me |
#22
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If the governor is hunting then you need to richen the carb up a bit, try giving the adjuster on top a 1/4 turn to the left.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#23
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I've tried going leaner and richer but will certainly take the suggestion. You're referring to the high-speed adjustment, right? Let's clarify one thing, though...."one turn" of a carburetor adjustment means a COMPLETE turn - 360 degrees, right? I think this goes without saying, but just want to make sure.
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#24
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Quote:
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#25
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Thanks Tim. It also seems to be running very hot. At least, after only a few minutes, the engine and surrounding area seems extremely hot. Don't recall that being the case before. I'd love for whatever problem is occurring to be a fairly simple fix, as has been, with few exceptions, the case over the years, but I don't think that's where I'm heading this time. I'm betting it needs a rebuild.
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#26
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Tim's suggestion to "richen" the fuel mixture may also help your "running hot" issue. An engine that is running too "lean" will also cause it to run hotter.
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#27
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Thanks again, but I think it's a much bigger issue unfortunately. I just had the carb off again, readjusted, took off the tank-to-carb hose and blew it out just in case it was clogged, and also blew out where the gas comes into the carb. Tried running leaner, richer. The engine sounds bad. I think it is past being 'on its last leg'. I think I am going to pursue the option of getting a rebuilt short block. I believe most here would agree as opposed to going out and buying a new tractor.
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#28
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Would you be able to take a video of what's going on, and post it to youtube? Then post a link here, so we can hear it ourselves...
__________________
Make the best of each day , Todd Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
#29
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This idea would not have occurred to me. If you really think it'd be that helpful...sure...I can do that. It might help to either reaffirm or else nix the supposition that indeed the engine is worn out.
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#30
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Alright.... this thread is about timing. How to set the points without a timing light. If we are going to move on to diagnosing the other engine issues, you need to start a new thread. Maybe label it "Engine issues" or something so that you can discuss what's wrong with the motor, and possible repair options including overhaul. 3 threads dealing with basically the same topic is just too many.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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