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Reload this Page What is the correct spark plug gap for 129?
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:11 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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Default What is the correct spark plug gap for 129?
Took out my plug being that I'm having some engine issues as referred to in another thread - the plug doesn't look all that bad, but not real good either. For one thing, it wasn't even tight - barely needed a socket to loosen it. The manual refers to K241-K341 engines as getting a gap of .035 for either battery or breakerless ignition. But the same engines with magneto call for .025. Which is the correct gap? I assume .025? The plug I have now is at least at .030.
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Old 08-26-2017, 03:10 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Battery Ignition = .035". Magneto Ignition = .025"
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Old 08-26-2017, 03:51 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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That doesn't do me any good....obviously I have a battery....so is that considered battery ignition? Or does mine also have a magneto and thus would be considered magneto ignition??
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Old 08-26-2017, 04:01 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You have battery ignition.
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Old 08-26-2017, 04:13 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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That doesn't do me any good....obviously I have a battery....so is that considered battery ignition?
I said "battery ignition"....NOT battery supply. Most Garden Tractors have a Battery to start them up, run lights, and a Elec PTO (if equipped).
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Old 08-26-2017, 06:07 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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See if a new plug improves the starting and running. I was going to look at the points - had the top screw off - and the bottom screw loosened but then lost my ambition. That bottom screw is a pain in the butt to get back in. I'm tempted to drill out that small hole that's in the frame to make it considerably larger and thus easier to get the screw back in. Almost have to take off the hood to get the bottom screw back in - no problem taking it out obviously. Poor design to not have it more accessible.
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Old 08-26-2017, 06:58 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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I'm tempted to drill out that small hole that's in the frame to make it considerably larger and thus easier to get the screw back in.
That is what a lot of members do here also. Makes life much easier.

The points have to have both mounting screws affixed. (A) To properly hold them in place and (B) to provide for the proper grounding.
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Old 08-26-2017, 07:00 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Originally Posted by three4rd View Post
See if a new plug improves the starting and running. I was going to look at the points - had the top screw off - and the bottom screw loosened but then lost my ambition. That bottom screw is a pain in the butt to get back in. I'm tempted to drill out that small hole that's in the frame to make it considerably larger and thus easier to get the screw back in. Almost have to take off the hood to get the bottom screw back in - no problem taking it out obviously. Poor design to not have it more accessible.
Allen head screws solve the problem easily.
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Old 08-26-2017, 07:17 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Allen head screws solve the problem easily.
Ditto.....

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Old 08-26-2017, 07:40 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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For the once or twice in a lifetime points change, I can deal with the screws.
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